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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #51  
Old 06-30-2011, 10:14 PM
Zhack Zhack is offline
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Default thanks again

I took the case side off and fully reworked the rod shape......I can't believe how much it was binding I KNOW i did not do that when I removed the cylinder.

2 years of ortho wire bending courses in dental school and building dozens of RC airplane models with Z bent servo pushrods came in handy. No binding. Smooth actuation. Now I will set preload and button her up.


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  #52  
Old 07-01-2011, 04:11 AM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Where your balls in place too?? Pulling on the pushrod can sometimes dislodge the balls in the governer too while will make it sit awkward and bind up.

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Originally Posted by Zhack View Post
I took the case side off and fully reworked the rod shape......I can't believe how much it was binding I KNOW i did not do that when I removed the cylinder.

2 years of ortho wire bending courses in dental school and building dozens of RC airplane models with Z bent servo pushrods came in handy. No binding. Smooth actuation. Now I will set preload and button her up.
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  #53  
Old 07-01-2011, 10:22 AM
Zhack Zhack is offline
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Balls were all good though I did remove and disassemble the governor to confirm and also to familiarize myself with it's operation. I'm certain I didn't pull on the pushrod hard enough to either bend it nor dislodge the balls. That was confirmed to me when I was actually intentionally reshaping it....it took very deliberate force to deform it (meaning correct it).

This whole thing makes me wonder if a lot of the "jetting" issues I have heard people struggling with around here could be related to malfunctioning or unadjusted PV action. Just a thought.

Anyway, I'm glad I got that all out of the way before trying to start jetting.

Thanks for your help.
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  #54  
Old 07-01-2011, 04:34 PM
forgiven forgiven is offline
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I had one of the power valves that was WAY out. Really thought GasGas had decided to not worry about low end and go for a harder hit...read through some posts...checked mine out...struggled mightly with a supplier of inner clutch cover gaskets...MIGHT be the best bike I have ever ridden now. Not just the best I have owned...best I have even threw a leg over! WOW.

I was all set to send the shocks to LTR but perhaps they are valved for fat asses?? Who knows such things??

All I need is a stabilzer and new tires and I am DONE. Truth be told I prolly don't need a stabilizer with this, but it is the only way I can think to make it better. It is borderline wheelie happy, but that helps with logs etc.

I love it.
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  #55  
Old 07-01-2011, 07:35 PM
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Great news. I don't know if the powervalve is the cause for all the jetting woes though. Mine has always operated within spec but always been a bit weak right off the bottom. 2.6mm squish is the underlying cause for me.
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  #56  
Old 07-04-2011, 10:38 AM
Zhack Zhack is offline
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I'm sure you are right. I was being a little cheeky.

I fired up the bike on the weeknd and heat cycled it. I ran the JD baseline recommendations (180M, 40P and 4th clip on red YZ250 needle). I ran 40:1.

Holy rich. Bike was gurgling and belching smoke. little bliups of throttle would cause the RPM to rise and stay elevated for a few seconds after throttle had returned to zero. Jetting is WAAAAY off. That said, I will run it rich and with extra premix for a tank to break in, then go to 172M, 38P and 2nd clip.

I know this isn't a jetting thread, so I'll sign off and join into one of the dozens of those going on here.
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  #57  
Old 07-15-2011, 02:50 AM
shaheeb shaheeb is offline
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Can someone please explain or post a picture showing which part is the 'governor spring' where the feeler gauge goes? Governor Assembly?

I adjusted the pv actuater too tightly my first time around. the assembly was so tight that my top end was cut short, losing overrev.

I would like to do it right this last time. I dont know where parts fiches for gasgas is, this would help in identifying each part so I can follow what GMP means.

Thanks
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  #58  
Old 07-17-2011, 12:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlbco View Post
Remove the side case by loosening the appropriate bolts. You will need to remove some of the clutch cover and water pump bolts because they hold the side case on! These bolts will be noticeably longer than the others and they must be removed.

Steve
You can see here which bolts you might be able to leave in place.

-Dean
taking lots of pictures while I'm in there.
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File Type: jpg Clutch-side-cover-bolts-web.jpg (124.5 KB, 353 views)
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  #59  
Old 07-17-2011, 04:09 AM
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Here's what the infamous Governor's Balls look like.

The blue thing is just paper to keep each ball in its ramp for the photo.
If it's not obvious in the photo, the cup where they ride in the No Balls photo has a similar ramped shape. Actually, you can see that pretty well in the spring from above photo.

I'm going to doctor up the from above photo and post where I'm guessing the feeler gauge might go. Also, I think my rod has Zhack Slack Syndrome and might need a minor straightening. More on that later
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Power-Balls.jpg (96.8 KB, 1242 views)
File Type: jpg No-Balls.jpg (120.5 KB, 617 views)
File Type: jpg Governor-Spring-top-view.jpg (118.1 KB, 622 views)
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  #60  
Old 07-17-2011, 04:59 AM
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here's a pic with feeler gauge to preload it.. you really should have 2 feeler gauges, one on each side.
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