Low rpm torque improvement

[Jakobi]

What sprocket combo are you using? Gearing it shorter is always an option. Most go for something around 13-50.

Jetting will clean things up and change the nature of the bike.

Head mod will allow for easier more consistent jetting, improved fuel economy, and more power across the rev range.

With the head mod, you could look at increasing compression above stock to increase bottom end response and snap.

You can also check the port timing and drop the cylinder a bit to move the power curve down (depending on current base gasket stack). Factor this into the head mod as the difference will be seen at squish clearance and directly affect that and compression ratios.

Ignition timing advanced as stated by Zman.

Aftermarket pipe. Something that is more orientated towards bottom end.

So that gives you a few things to work with. Some easier than others. Common trend though, is that if you take steps to improve bottom end performance it usually comes at an expense of top end (or top speed in terms of gearing).

Having the ports setup and head milled by a knowledgable tuner gives the biggest benefit and allows you to achieve a broad spread of usable power - or can be setup in either direction depending on your desires.

[Mikeyx]

Is anyone familiar with this: http://www.enduropuro.it/shop/en/200...ust-valve.html

[motopsycho87]

RM125 cdi gonna keep banging on about it. But best bang for buck for adding low / mid / mid-high power

[spooly]

Originally Posted by motopsycho87

RM125 cdi gonna keep banging on about it. But best bang for buck for adding low / mid / mid-high power

Soon enough I might be convinced! !! Are the connectors the same?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

[motopsycho87]

I don't know if the block going into the cdi is the same, I haven't dared try or bothered to look! But the colours going into the block from the stator etc are the same. You will have to make an earth point though, more than easy! Like mentioned on the other post, gas gas 125 and KTM 125 should fit too! I'd also make sure you have the best needle jet and pilot, theyake a huge difference!

[poelinca]

I'm in the same boat as you, new rider, new to offroad, new to bike, EC300. A few observations:

- give it time (get more experience), as you ride more and more you will appreciate the bike more and more, it has enough low end power to get you anywhere

- learn to use the clutch, my brain is telling me that the power comes from twisting the wrist, when in fact power, the traction and the low eng grunt should be controlled using the clutch, this one i find the hardest of all just to rewire my brain instinct

- do not be scared of the power valve, get used to it and learn how to use it and when. i got used to it by accelerating slowly till it opens on straight fire roads, now it won't take me by surprise anymore (i leaned the spot) but i still have a lot to learn about body positioning before it opens so i don't have to "hold on for dear life" so much

- make sure you are in the proper gear for the required climb/hill/terrain/etc, me as a total noob if i can't tell witch gear i should be in for the obstacle ahead, i switch to 1'st or 2'nd and it just climbs anywhere

- look at the tires, are they in good shape ? are they old ? are they ... etc ? tires have a lot to do with traction, if you don't have traction you won't feel the low end grunt if you are like me - a total beginner. if they are old even with knobbies not worn out, the rubber compound won't give you the traction you need, change them

- this is a 2 stroke after all, there is only so much low end you can have (trus me, trust the forums, trust the riders, the bike has enough). the engine is built to be wind up, get used to it and ride it hard. from my beginner perspective the EC300 has enough low end torque to be compared to a 4 stroke

- last thing, if you are still not satisfied give the bike for a quick spin to somebody experienced, they will tell you if it pulls right or not (i did, twice, just to make sure the "hold on for dear life" and the grunt down low are as what they should be, everybody keeps coming back and tells me the bike climbs on her own without any effort from the rider, i need to trust the bike more)

Have fun, and remember this is a very powerful bike, take it slowly one baby step at a time.

p.s. it's very easy as a beginner to get sucked in to the spiral of making changes to the bike, what i actually need is more seat time than messing with jetting and be worried about low end grunt

[Mikeyx]

Thanks poelinca. Your comments are for me of great value!

[swazi_matt]

The point about the clutch is very valid. The most important thing I learnt from a Chris Birch training day was to ride with your guns out like a cowboy - one finger on the clutch one finger on the brake. This habit will save you many times - about to flip or whisky throttle- just pull in the clutch and once you know the engagement point you will be able to climb in just about any gear (sometimes accompanied by OEM gas gas clutch squeal)

Adjust the clutch to disengage before the lever hits the rest of your fingers that way you don't need to let go of the bars when you come to a stop

[poelinca]

Originally Posted by Mikeyx

Thanks poelinca. Your comments are for me of great value!

Glad i could be of assistance, it's only what i have learned as theory during the time i rode the bike (a total of 6-8 days out in the woods an hills) and try to apply, it's very hard at start though however it only gets better and better (but i enjoy every minute of it, and always want more and more).

Originally Posted by swazi_matt

The point about the clutch is very valid. The most important thing I learnt from a Chris Birch training day was to ride with your guns out like a cowboy - one finger on the clutch one finger on the brake. This habit will save you many times - about to flip or whisky throttle- just pull in the clutch and once you know the engagement point you will be able to climb in just about any gear (sometimes accompanied by OEM gas gas clutch squeal)

Adjust the clutch to disengage before the lever hits the rest of your fingers that way you don't need to let go of the bars when you come to a stop

Yes, forgot about the fingers on the clutch and break. I do it too, if the finger gets tired i switch to two fingers, then back to one and so on. Eventually arm pump kicks in an i need to take a break. But yes, it saved me a ton of times!