2005 --> No Squawk. 2011 --> Some Squawk

[AZRickD]

Yes they do. I re-read the Rekluse oil recommendation again. A very soft recommendation, now, ending with a "use whateve you use but if you have issues, give Rotella Dino a try."

I ordered their very pricey adjuster. I mentioned that some GG owners had issues with bleeding the component. He seemed puzzled by that.

What mineral oil are folks using in the 2011 AJP clutch master cylinders ? Someting cheaper than Magura Blood, I hope.

Lastly, I have red and blue disk springs in a baggy. I am wondering if using stiffer springs would allow me to ease back on the gap and keep the Rekluse behaving at idle. I wonder if I will have issues with mid-RPM engagement or hill climbing of a technical nature ?

[Moto7man]

Originally Posted by AZRickD

I ordered their very pricey adjuster. I mentioned that some GG owners had issues with bleeding the component. He seemed puzzled by that.

What mineral oil are folks using in the 2011 AJP clutch master cylinders ? Someting cheaper than Magura Blood, I hope.

Lastly, I have red and blue disk springs in a baggy. I am wondering if using stiffer springs would allow me to ease back on the gap and keep the Rekluse behaving at idle. I wonder if I will have issues with mid-RPM engagement or hill climbing of a technical nature ?

I used the Magura Blood but my master cylinder is a Magura. Mine was a *^tch to bleed. Here is a thread on which exp springs to use.
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/sho...experts+please

[andoman]

The solution to too much drag (bad creep in gear at idle and engine stalling) is found in the small adjustment springs: Go with the blue ones.

DON'T try and modulate the clutch drag with the center hub adjustment. Stick with one turn+2 tick marks.

I think I ended up using the anti-squeal o-rings but I can't remember for sure. It still squeals when It starts slipping badly. Its really telling me that I need to shift down...

[AZRickD]

What behavior will I see with the blue vs the silver ?

[AZRickD]

I've decided to start from scratch.

I removed the EXP ring and took it apart. The former owner hand a combo mix of copper-colored springs on one side and blue-colored springs on the other. The blue springs felt stiffer. I went with BLUE all the way around.

Looking at Rekluse videos on the web.

[andoman]

EDIT:
Rick, I got my reply in after you had posted that you went with the blue springs. And I may be confused at the stiffness difference between the springs, but the blue ones are the ones you want. My un-edited post remains below:

The adjustment springs are the tiny ones under the 1/4 turn locks that hold the EXP friction disk assembly together. There are 6 of them.
For the Gassers the assembly comes from Rekluse with 3 blue and 3 red springs (medium engagement). That is typically too hard a set-up and causes stalling and a hard clunk and lurch when dropped into gear. There is way too much creep in gear at idle.
The silver springs are used for most of the Jap bikes and I gather from the table in the instructions that they are stiffer even than the red ones. Sounds like your used kit isn't for a Gasser. I recommend calling Rekluse to ensure that the plates and other bits are the ones you need. All the kits share parts, but there are also bike-specific parts in there.

Back to the blue springs:
Swapping out the springs for all blue ones will raise the engine speed required for the clutch to start engaging. You will get less clutch drag at idle and a smoother engagement as you roll on the throttle off idle.
Its confusing because the table labels the blue springs "High Springs." They are actually lighter springs and refer to a "higher" speed requirement for engagement.

The center pressure plate adjuster is used to adjust the feel of the clutch lever to rider preference. It effects how the lever feels when the clutch gets hot. Its small window of recommended adjustment of 1 turn to 1 turn + 4 tick marks (1 turn + 2 ticks being the starting point) ensures that as the clutch heats up it will disengage and as it wears over time it wont slip and cause premature wear.

[AZRickD]

The videos I've seen have the EXP ring full engaging the basket fingers.

Check out the photo to see that my EXP ring is only half way in.

Yes, I have 8 steels and 7 fibers.

Edit: The Rekluse video says this is normal -- http://www.rekluse.com/videos.shtml

[Moto7man]

My exp ring extends beyond the fingers just like your basket in the photo.

[AZRickD]

I think like the idle behavior a little better at 1 and 2 tics. Maybe not enough free play gain, but there is some. Not sure if I could quantify any higher rev slippage from last night's speed runs down the road.

What is the set up technique and adjustment process for the adjustable slave cylinder ?

For converting it back to a non-EXP Core-Only clutch, is it just a matter of removing the EXP ring and putting in my last (spare) friction and bolting everything up?

[StuJohnson]

Originally Posted by AZRickD

For converting it back to a non-EXP Core-Only clutch, is it just a matter of removing the EXP ring and putting in my last (spare) friction and bolting everything up?

NO - You would have to buy the Rekluse Manual Clutch Pressure Plate... I looked into this myself.