yet another no idle thread.

[lankydoug]

Originally Posted by stainlesscycle

yeah, i was kinda thinking that it might be the issue, since i've went through everything else. i'm going to swap a different carb in and see - then at least i can narrow things down to carb body issue..

Look at the bright side, most bikes don't last long enough to wear out the carb body. (if that's what it turns out to be)

[stainlesscycle]

it isn't carb body. switched carbs and same no idle. it doesn't even putt putt die. when i shut the throttle rpm's just drop straight to zero. this makes me think it's spark related. i've done quite a few changes carburetion wise - and none had any effect at say under 2000 rpm.

even though they are 'identical' carbs, the bike runs better on the first carb...this carb sounds rich all over. kinda dull exhaust note, and almost like it's loading up. not snappy like the other carb with the same jets, float, bowl, slide, needle etc.

i've switched plugs several times. i'm outta fresh plugs now. i gotta get some more. on the ceramic - plugs are dark on one side, and white on the other - not running 'em long enough to get any kind of reading.


i'm starting to think this is maybe an electrical issue. maybe i jumped into the carb too soon - i though the warm weather was the problem - and maybe it's not. maybe the coil is weak, or something going on with the stator. i'm gonna swap them out tomorrow and see what happens..

[GMP]

If it starts easy enough, especially when hot, and runs good through the range, I doubt its electrical. Still doesn't hurt to freshen up the coil HV wire connection though.

Do you have any needle with a leaner diameter in your collection? Forget taper structure for this experiment, you just want to see if you can lean that range and allow somewhat of an idle without jacking the slide up with the screw.

[mrkartoom]

In addition to stator and coil I'd check the cable and plug cap to make sure you don't have a gap or some cooked copper it's having difficulty jumping at the union.

[hannesd]

check your reeds, mine were open...

[stainlesscycle]

Originally Posted by GMP

If it starts easy enough, especially when hot, and runs good through the range, I doubt its electrical. Still doesn't hurt to freshen up the coil HV wire connection though.

Do you have any needle with a leaner diameter in your collection? Forget taper structure for this experiment, you just want to see if you can lean that range and allow somewhat of an idle without jacking the slide up with the screw.

unfortunately i only have a ddk and 2 n1ed

[stainlesscycle]

Originally Posted by hannesd

check your reeds, mine were open...

reeds were checked - they were not bad - the top reeds were perfect, the lower reeds had some minor deformation, but were still sealing. - i'm replacing them anyway - waiting for them to show up..

[SideshowBob]

Originally Posted by mrkartoom

Carb mod or squish band . . . or both?

Just the carb mod.

[stainlesscycle]

ok, so swapped carb back.

now it's 40/172/#7/2.5 turns out/ddk

still runs great at all throttle postions. it's just barely starting to idle....but the idle screw is all the way in.. it's got a pretty big hit at the bottom.. definitely lofts the wheel at anything more than a gentle throttle roll-on

i went back and looked at what the carb for this 300 motor had in when i got it. it was: (i don't know what stock jetting was - this was what was in the bike...) n1ed, 35, and 185 (and if i remember correctly it was quite violent off the bottom..)- i believe n1ed is 2.685 diameter (anyone know the n1ed dimensions???) - it ran fine with that combo, but was rich at the top. . ddk is 2.695 - i can't get n1ed to work in jd jetting chart. so would a 38 pilot compensate for the needle difference? i find it hard to believe that a 38 pilot is needed - it seems lean to me. but it is 80+ degrees here..and 1000' elevation.

it's pretty impossible to get a plug reading for the pilot..

anyone?

[jhendr3702]

Originally Posted by stainlesscycle

ok, so swapped carb back.

now it's 40/172/#7/2.5 turns out/ddk

still runs great at all throttle postions. it's just barely starting to idle....but the idle screw is all the way in.. it's got a pretty big hit at the bottom.. definitely lofts the wheel at anything more than a gentle throttle roll-on

i went back and looked at what the carb for this 300 motor had in when i got it. it was: n1ed, 35, and 185 (and if i remember correctly it was quite violent off the bottom..)- i believe n1ed is 2.685 diameter (anyone know the n1ed dimensions???) - it ran fine with that combo, but was rich at the top. . ddk is 2.695 - i can't get n1ed to work in jd jetting chart. so would a 38 pilot compensate for the needle difference? i find it hard to believe that a 38 pilot is needed - it seems lean to me. but it is 80+ degrees here..and 1000' elevation.

it's pretty impossible to get a plug reading for the pilot..

anyone?

stainless.. when i got my 01 i am almost 100% sure it had a 38 pilot in it.. will check tonight and let you know if i still have it.. Les told me that was oe jetted in 01...