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General Discussions & Announcements General Announcements, General Questions, e.g. What bike do I buy?, etc.


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  #21  
Old 09-24-2018, 08:15 PM
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GasGas GasGas is offline
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I just had the same experience with the bolts on my rads. The mounts must be pre-threaded before they get welded to the frame. I just ran a tap through them and they were fine. Just installed BPD rad braces, shock pivot guard and chain slider mount guard. Other than the bolt threads, this bike is way easier to work on than anything else I have owned. The electrical is pretty tidy too.


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  #22  
Old 09-24-2018, 09:56 PM
memphis2857 memphis2857 is offline
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For the starter just pull the small bendix cover and lube the bendix with a light coat of grease. There is ZERO issue with the inner mechanical workings of the e-start system. The issue all along has been small cables and a bad CDI map. Leave the starter on and enjoy it.


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  #23  
Old 09-24-2018, 09:58 PM
memphis2857 memphis2857 is offline
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Curious what settings you settled on with the NEDW? I never could get it to work, was always rich on bottom and lean on top


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  #24  
Old 09-24-2018, 10:27 PM
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I've pulled the whole starter so I can turn the flywheel over to take the squish sample. I haven't started the bike yet so can't comment on where I'll end up jetting wise. It could be a case that the NEDW doesn't work well with this engine. It has run flawlessly in my previous donk for 200hrs with a nice linear pull from top to bottom (40 NEDW#2 175).

Changes in the port layout and ignition could throw all that out the window though, as my 2010 didn't gel with the NE needles and always ran better with N3CW#3.
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  #25  
Old 09-25-2018, 01:40 AM
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Seal up the starter cover, add a breather tube and run some 2.5w or 5w fork oil. The action of the bendix is so much quicker and the lube actually gets flung around on the gears etc rather than just stuck to the wall of the cover like grease. I like the NEDW in my 300. I think it?ll work well in yours too. I think it is just a euro thing that at least one bolt is galled up or cross threaded...
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  #26  
Old 09-25-2018, 04:10 AM
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Did you drill and tap a breather into the cover?

I think it wouldn't be a GG if it didn't have at least a few quirks.

The tank is full of plastic shards left over from manufacture. Also some green oil, almost like they had a little fuel in the tank at some stage and drained it.

I may have a slow weep from the sump plug. Not a hard fix. Found some oil along the frame rail and bash plate. Have cleaned and left the bike propped up on a piece of cardboard overnight.

Going to measure the squish tomorrow. Everything ready to go, just need to pull the head and throw some solder in there.

Need to start ordering parts soon!!!
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  #27  
Old 09-25-2018, 05:14 AM
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Yeah I drilled and tapped a 5mm vacuum fitting in there. I have got pics on here of it somewhere. That mod and the leads has mine starting all the time on the stock battery. Yep very true! Cannot wait to hear your first ride report!
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  #28  
Old 09-25-2018, 08:12 PM
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Did you see my post on the 2015 revised starter thread? Not sure if still the same but the small cover the 6mm steel shaft runs dry in plain ally (!@#!!) while Mrs small gear tries to get away from Mr big gear machining a groove as she goes.

I've just inserted a bush (small hole see pic) there but will try the oil bath method. Wasn't going to use a breather but maybe not a bad idea. Mate's bike so he's the guinea pig. I'll just keep with me old kicker pretending not to be jealous.
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  #29  
Old 09-25-2018, 10:50 PM
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I like my old kick booter lever! Although I think I've half worn the teeth off the shaft of my 2013. Bit of slop in errr.

The ktm starters always used a small plastic bush. They'd wear out quickly but were easy enough to change.

I can have a look at mine and see if they've updated the design; I doubt they have though.

Took a couple squish measurements today.. Coming in around 1.55-1.6mm at the edge, which isn't what I was expecting and almost alright. Leads me to the next question though.. I wonder where the comp ratio is at. Looks like I'll be cc'ing the head and crunching some numbers.
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  #30  
Old 09-26-2018, 02:28 AM
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Bet you still need to adjust the angle to piston. My 300 is just under 1mm currently. But with a heap out of the chamber obviously.
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