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Enduro Electrical & Wiring Lighting, Ignition, Wiring, Plugs, etc.


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  #11  
Old 04-20-2017, 01:40 PM
Neil E. Neil E. is online now
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I'd need a picture and more details on a "5 wire standard RR".

If it is an aftermarket fullwave RR, then you've got to float/isolate the stator ground so the RR will work. You battery minus is required to be grounded for the starter motor to work, so you must isolate the stator lighting output in order to use a fullwave RR.

The stock stator is grounded because the stock RR construction allows this to work with a grounded battery. As soon as you deviate from the stock estart RR, the sytem also has to change. Now your lighting grounds must be lifted from the chassis ground and connected to the new isolated stator ground (which is no longer connected to engine/chassis ground). The isolated stator ground is no longer a ground, it is simply the "other side of the circuit".

The easier way is to buy an estart harness and stock RR.


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Old 04-20-2017, 01:56 PM
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Be careful when ordering anything to do with an estart bike because the fiches may not list the parts correctly.
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Old 04-20-2017, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil E. View Post
I'd need a picture and more details on a "5 wire standard RR".

If it is an aftermarket fullwave RR, then you've got to float/isolate the stator ground so the RR will work. You battery minus is required to be grounded for the starter motor to work, so you must isolate the stator lighting output in order to use a fullwave RR.

The stock stator is grounded because the stock RR construction allows this to work with a grounded battery. As soon as you deviate from the stock estart RR, the sytem also has to change. Now your lighting grounds must be lifted from the chassis ground and connected to the new isolated stator ground (which is no longer connected to engine/chassis ground). The isolated stator ground is no longer a ground, it is simply the "other side of the circuit".

The easier way is to buy an estart harness and stock RR.
Trailtech makes a standard RR with 5 wires.

2 Yellow
1 Yellow/Red
1 Black
1 Red

It looks like this. It is a FullWave RR Here is the link http://www.trailtech.net/electrical/...ies/7004-rr150

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Old 04-20-2017, 02:59 PM
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They have this disclaimer on the RR page:

Trail Tech's Regulator/Rectifier is not an OEM replacement and will not work with most factory stators. The stator must have a floated ground, modifications to the stator may be required.

Hook it up like the attached diagram.
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File Type: jpg GG Trailtech.jpg (53.7 KB, 18 views)
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Old 04-20-2017, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil E. View Post
They have this disclaimer on the RR page:

Trail Tech's Regulator/Rectifier is not an OEM replacement and will not work with most factory stators. The stator must have a floated ground, modifications to the stator may be required.

Hook it up like the attached diagram.
Did you draw that specifically for me? If so you are the kindest individual I've never had the pleasure of meeting!

Thank you so much!!
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Old 04-20-2017, 05:42 PM
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You are welcome. The Trailtech diagrams are confusing since they are for non-estart bikes and are based on floating/isolating the battery ground.
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:23 PM
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You are welcome. The Trailtech diagrams are confusing since they are for non-estart bikes and are based on floating/isolating the battery ground.
Wow. Thanks so much! I'll get on this and let you know how it all turns out. I still need to source a battery. Likely going Lithium and then just use the kicker when the bike is still cold. But this clears up all my confusion about what I need and how to wire it up. Thanks again!

I've already replaced my groundup bendix gears with the late 80's Honda CH80 Scooter one and stretched the weight spring to allow it to mesh better, not to get power to it all.
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:13 PM
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Here is a pic of what is def a voltage regulator on my bike. No open plug on the harness that I can find.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 04-21-2017, 12:13 PM
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That is a voltage regulator used on the stock AC bikes. Maybe the previous owner put that on when he removed the estart parts.

As to stator modification: Instead of fishing a new wire down the harness for your floated ground point, you could remove the yellow from it's location and move it. Solder it to the ground wire that you unhook from the ground lug. So the yellow wire is now "the other side of the circuit".

White will be the "top" of the windings and yellow will be the "bottom" of the windings. There is a voltage trimmer on the TrailTech RR so with the engine at moderate RPMs you should be able to adjust it for approx 13.5 to 14.5 VDC output. This is based on a battery that you've already charged before installing.

I use a Ballistic brand 8 cell Lithium ion battery. It is closer in size to the stock battery than the Shorai battery that most guys use. It has a higher cranking capacity.
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Old 04-21-2017, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil E. View Post
That is a voltage regulator used on the stock AC bikes. Maybe the previous owner put that on when he removed the estart parts.

As to stator modification: Instead of fishing a new wire down the harness for your floated ground point, you could remove the yellow from it's location and move it. Solder it to the ground wire that you unhook from the ground lug. So the yellow wire is now "the other side of the circuit".

White will be the "top" of the windings and yellow will be the "bottom" of the windings. There is a voltage trimmer on the TrailTech RR so with the engine at moderate RPMs you should be able to adjust it for approx 13.5 to 14.5 VDC output. This is based on a battery that you've already charged before installing.

I use a Ballistic brand 8 cell Lithium ion battery. It is closer in size to the stock battery than the Shorai battery that most guys use. It has a higher cranking capacity.
Size isn't near as important to me as I will be building my own battery box anyways. I'm not a fan of how much the factory one comes into the airbox on the '12 bikes.

Do you think the Ballistic 4 cell would be adequate for cranking over the starter after the bike is already warmed up and the battery has had draw moving through it for the headlight?
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