needle codes

[skid jackson]

I've been looking around the net and this site and there are various needle code charts but damned if I can figure out what it all means. there seems to be three or four ways to label these things. three or four characters .. take your pick!! I'm trying to figure out where the ne1f or what ever the stock needle in my 11 250 is in the scheme of things. Seems a little rich on the bottom and lean in the middle. I'd prefer it the other way round. anyone got a chart set up to show what the kehin code is for the oem needle(s)

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by skid jackson

I've been looking around the net and this site and there are various needle code charts but damned if I can figure out what it all means. there seems to be three or four ways to label these things. three or four characters .. take your pick!! I'm trying to figure out where the ne1f or what ever the stock needle in my 11 250 is in the scheme of things. Seems a little rich on the bottom and lean in the middle. I'd prefer it the other way round. anyone got a chart set up to show what the kehin code is for the oem needle(s)

You can't directly compare any of the OEM needles to the Kehin ones because..

3 Letter coded needles (CCK,DEK, etc) are a straight single taper. Each letter respresents, diameter, length and taper. There is loads of info available on these.

4 Letter/Number OEM needles (NEDW,N3CH,N1EF,NOZI) kind of follow their own set of rules and have multiple tapers at unknown degrees etc. What I can tell you is this
NOZx and N1Ex (TM and GG) are triple taper and essentially the same needle. The N1E is a half a clip leaner than NOZ. The last letter denotes the needle diameter at the straight section.
N3Ex N3Cx (yamaha) are dual tapered. Same needles, C half clip leaner, x deonotes diameter.
NEDx NECx (suzuki) are triple taper. Same needle. C half a clip leaner, x is the same diameter.

For all above needle diameters are as follows.
D=2.685mm
E=2.695mm (JD Blue)
F=2.705mm
G= 2.715
H= 2.725
W/I=2.735 (JD Red)
J= 2.745

Needle straight has alot to do with getting a consistant idle when matched with the correct main. Most find that with the stock F the idle has to be wound right in. NEDx range runs leaner->richer where N3CH is very rich low and leans off mid to top.