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  #11  
Old 07-13-2023, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wbdisco View Post
I know for sure it doesn?t have the adjustable slave cylinder. This clutch came on the bike so I have no clue what is in it. I wonder if an adjustable slave cylinder can be added.
Then I think you have the first version of the Rekluse, the z-start. The part number is RMS-100 if I remember correctly.

These work in a different way than the later ones, I dont think an adjustabe slave will have much impact here.

To check what you have, just lay the bike on its side an pop off the small clutch cover. Take a picture of the pressure plate (no need to dismantle anything) and post it here.

Sent fra min YAL-L21 via Tapatalk


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2015 EC200 Racing: TE bars, Rekluse Core Exp 3.0, 38mm Lectron & Ohlins S3 steering damper
2006 EC200: 2011 plastics, Rekluse Z-Start, revalved KYB forks & Scotts steering damper
1998 Bimota Supermono
1986 Duc Mille S2
1975 Guzzi sidecar hack
1961 Morini Corsaro 125
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  #12  
Old 07-13-2023, 08:32 PM
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Are you talking about removing the Rekluse clutch cover?
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  #13  
Old 07-13-2023, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Wbdisco View Post
Are you talking about removing the Rekluse clutch cover?
Yes. Remove it and take a pic of the clutch. Should be able to identify if it's a Z-start or a later EXP type from what it looks like.
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  #14  
Old 07-30-2023, 01:14 PM
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If you want to go back to stock, check Ebay for good used clutch parts.
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  #15  
Old 08-22-2023, 12:26 PM
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Well I have acquired a take off manual clutch and everything that goes with it. I have a email sent to Rekluse about possibly going with the Core Manual. I am going to take the cover off today and see exactly what model I have. I am curious to see what parts I can Re-use from the auto clutch and go with their manual. Of course the other option is just go with the original. Do y?all have opinions on the Rekluse manual over the stocker? I?m not in a rush to swap, but think that I will probably go back to manual over the next year.
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  #16  
Old 08-22-2023, 03:02 PM
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I would take the Rekluse manual clutch over the OEM factory setup any day. That said, using a high quality clutch basket, and doing the Honda frictions mod, fixes the issues with the OEM clutch and is way cheaper than the Rekluse Core Manual.
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  #17  
Old 08-22-2023, 05:43 PM
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Here are some pics for y?all to decipher. I am curious if it is possible to use some of these parts from the auto clutch for the Rekluse manual. I see that they sell regular friction and steel plates separately. Also, not sure if I am supposed to have the adjustable slave cylinder or not. I don?t have one. For you guys that have an auto, does your clutch override only occur when the lever is fully pulled in? Or does it start to engage at half pull or before. My biggest beef with this is that I must pull my clutch lever all the way to the grip for override. Kind of sucks having to change handgrip to use the clutch instead of using one or two fingers.
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  #18  
Old 08-22-2023, 08:56 PM
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Looks like it is the core exp 2.0. I found a reference to the pressure plate part number.
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  #19  
Old 08-23-2023, 03:47 AM
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Did you also find an EXP 2.0 user manual? The centerpiece of the pressure plate looks like an adjustment mechanism. You should try to adust it, as that most likely will ccure your problem with the lever going too far in before anything happens. If you can adjust it there, an adjustable slave will do the same thing without the need for opening it up to adjust it.
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"So you know, that you're over the hill when your mind makes a promise that your body can't fill" (Little Feat: Old Folks Boogie)

2015 EC200 Racing: TE bars, Rekluse Core Exp 3.0, 38mm Lectron & Ohlins S3 steering damper
2006 EC200: 2011 plastics, Rekluse Z-Start, revalved KYB forks & Scotts steering damper
1998 Bimota Supermono
1986 Duc Mille S2
1975 Guzzi sidecar hack
1961 Morini Corsaro 125
etc
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  #20  
Old 08-23-2023, 07:41 AM
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I did not find a manual. Rekluse has a huge list of manuals but they are listed by part number. I have an email sent to them to find out which manual I need. The more videos I see the more I am figuring it out. I called them yesterday and the guy said the adjuster in the center would effect the free play gain which in turn would also effect clutch lever adjustment. It seems that the style clutch I have is one that would be like the cable clutch style even though I have hydraulic. Most hydraulic come with the slave cylinder. I am assuming that adjusting my clutch lever play will also effect free play gain, so I?m thinking that both will have to be done in tandem. I?m gonna give it a try after work today.

It not that I don?t like the auto, I just hate the fact I have to pull the lever in with all fingers, essentially changing my grip while riding. I?m trying to get that two finger halfway pull to override without smashing my other fingers.
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