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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #21  
Old 06-09-2009, 04:12 PM
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Along those lines, a cheap test would be to get the blender (or another emulsifier), add a bit of water to the oil, and then spin it up. Let the mix sit for a while, then look at the color. The human eye is quite good, and by slowly adding water until the colors match, you can determine how much water did get in.

Just be careful that the missus doesn't catch you blending gear oil & water cocktails in her blender.


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  #22  
Old 06-09-2009, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blitz11 View Post
Along those lines, a cheap test would be to get the blender (or another emulsifier), add a bit of water to the oil, and then spin it up. Let the mix sit for a while, then look at the color. The human eye is quite good, and by slowly adding water until the colors match, you can determine how much water did get in.

Just be careful that the missus doesn't catch you blending gear oil & water cocktails in her blender.

or just tell her they are mudslides and RUUNNNNNNN.
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  #23  
Old 08-13-2009, 10:09 PM
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still chasing this issue ... did an enduro saturday and then a turkey run on sunday probably about 150 miles between them .. mostly dry but some big puddles along the way. rad fluid doesn't seem to have changed. Now i'm back to thinking it is coming from the outside. I rode the bike a few times befoer and the oil did not go all milky too fast. just kind of had a slow fade thing going on. After this weekend thought it was definitely milky. I need to change out my front sprocket, the bike is still running the original sprocket shaft seal. If water was getting in through the seal wouldn't it also be leaking oil out. No sign of oil coming out. How about a list of all the ways water can get into the tranny from out side the motor?? I checked the two vent lines and they were tight where they screw into the motor. the right side one was run up by the head stock and turned down. Must have forgot to run it back to the airbox after putting it back together this winter. gonna run that back to the airbox again. at this point I'm getting ready to pull the top end and side cover and do another water pump seal. Gotta get this sorted.
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  #24  
Old 08-13-2009, 10:24 PM
skid jackson skid jackson is offline
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here is a pic of the front sprocket

you can notice it seems kind of oily around the shaft. could that be a slight leak?? I'm inclined to believe it is just oily gunk as i lube my chain with gear oil. (got lots of it hanging around) however every thing else in the pic seems pretty dry. why is the center of the shaft looking oily??
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  #25  
Old 08-14-2009, 09:03 AM
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Is it wet behind the sprocket? Oil is moving down the spinning shaft, that is what mine did after I rode through a wetlands area in a race and wrapped grass all with ion the c/s area. It looked like that, but I had some oil behind the sprocket, but no water in the tranny oil.
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  #26  
Old 08-14-2009, 01:50 PM
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There is an o-ring that goes on the countershaft before the sleeve and seals the sleeve to the bearing inner race. If this is bad you will leak oil between the sleeve and shaft, not the sleeve and seal, as appears in your photo. Notice no oil is present on the cases. If you didn't do any water crossings I find it hard to beleive this is your problem though.

How milky is the oil, got a pic? It doesn't take much water to make oil milky looking. From running Rotella for years I can tell you its like any other oil, turns a charcoal grey/black color when dirty, and most of that is from spooge fouling the oil through PV rod passage for the common vent. I'm wondering if you do indeed have a small internal leak, like the gasket I mentioned or a porous casting. You could be pushing water vapor through that condenses in the transmission and fouls the oil over time. Ideally you should do a leak down test of the cooling system. You could try and run a waterless coolant for a ride, that won't vaporize, operates at low pressure, and see if the problem disappears. If your sure everything else is in good shape, your vents are tight and routed properly, and your running out of ideas, I'd give this a try.

For the newer bikes with the gas cap vent nipple in the frame, a bulletproof way to vent the trans is to use that nipple and run a shorty gas cap vent hose.
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  #27  
Old 08-15-2009, 02:36 AM
tias240(sweden) tias240(sweden) is offline
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Check the slavecylinder(?) for the clutch. If its leaking, oil will be milky. That was a problem for me an some of my friends. It can also leak in water that way.
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  #28  
Old 08-21-2009, 06:52 PM
skid jackson skid jackson is offline
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tias
What exactly did you find wrong with the clutch slave cyclinder?? On the parts fiche it looks like all there is, is an o ring .... did the o ring fail??
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  #29  
Old 08-25-2009, 02:50 PM
tias240(sweden) tias240(sweden) is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skid jackson View Post
tias
What exactly did you find wrong with the clutch slave cyclinder?? On the parts fiche it looks like all there is, is an o ring .... did the o ring fail??

yes it did.
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  #30  
Old 10-19-2009, 11:15 PM
skid jackson skid jackson is offline
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going to give the water pump seal another shot
trying to think what I might have screwed up that could cause an improper install. I've dealt with these ceramic water pump seals on pumps at work so they are not foreign to me. part number 34 is a washer ..iirc this goes on the impeller side of the side case between the side case and the black rubber thing that holds the white life saver thing. correct. all this stuff goes into place dry ...i.e. no grease or silicone sealant or anything else correct? pretty simple install ... just make sure not to touch the wear surfaces on the new seals ... anything else

http://www.gofasters.com/index.php?m...ath=65_284_297
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