A few ?'s- sorting new bike

[adv rider]

Well I have been working on my bike, in an attempt to ready it for it's first ride. So I have been slowly disassembling so I will know my bike- which is 11' 250 race. Here's a few ?'s, remarks
1 - How is everyone getting the wiring out from airbox to remove subframe? The large plug for the ignition box doesn't fit thru wiring hole
2 - How is the quality of the original chain? And what with no master link, I have only seen that on street bikes. And has anyone installed a clip type master link, and what brand? Their is no brand marking on chain
3 - It looks like I need to pull the swing arm to remove linkage for service- True? Also looks like I can't remove lower shock bolt without removing linkage.
4 - I never seen that type of plastic bell on the carburetor, At first I thought the airbox boot hose clamp was in the wrong position..but once I pulled the subframe back I saw that plastic bell I realized the clamp was in correct spot. Is that bell permanently on there? Has anyone ever had one loosen up and allow unfiltered air{dirt}into engine?
5 - float height was at 7mm, 40/180, going to reset float, leave the 40, and try 178. I have a NECW needle coming
6 - has anyone put a # plate in front? from what model, and did it bolt on nicely?
7 - Can I remove the lighting wiring harness with no issues?
8 - Is that a map switch mounted on my coolant hose? I thought I remembered reading about it, but not sure. If so, where can I learn more about it.
That's all for now, i'm sure as I get further torn down, I will find more stuff.

[Jakobi]

1 - I haven't had to remove the subframe. I just keep loosening it and rotating it up when I need access to the rear.
2 - Good quality. I can't remember the brand but it held up really well. Someone will advise the brand. Once you know you can get a master link in that brand if you need to break it and add one. I never added one. There really isn't a need. Replace that alloy rear sprocket when it shows wear and you'll get a better run out of the chain.
3 - For a full service you really should be removing the swing arm pivot as well and giving that some fresh grease too. You can get most of the linkage out with the swingarm still on but it means you miss the front pivot and the actual bearings in the swingarm (rear underside) are harder to repack with it on the bike. To access lower shock mount just remove the front dogbone/linkage pivot at the rocker. Roll them down and you have access to the lower shock. Easy. Note: not sure if your 2011R uses the revised linkage that 2012 bikes used. If so its different to my 2010 and other 2011 models (and the shocks use different clevis').
4 -Haven't seen one either. Ask singletracker. Haha!
5- Start with a 175/172 main with that needle in a 250. For the AS2 stock float height is 6.5mm I think. 7-8mm is a better number due to the angle the carb sits in the frame at (lower fuel level).
6-
7-
8- Map switch is black with a toggle button. A cloud and some sunshine. Cloud retards the timing a bit softening up the bottom and mid. The Sun is fun. Ramps up harder faster. The timing changes can easily be lost in bad jetting. You'll notice once its dialled the switch will have more effect. I personally never use it (leave it on sunshine), but that's just me.

[adv rider]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

1 - I haven't had to remove the subframe. I just keep loosening it and rotating it up when I need access to the rear.
2 - Good quality. I can't remember the brand but it held up really well. Someone will advise the brand. Once you know you can get a master link in that brand if you need to break it and add one. I never added one. There really isn't a need. Replace that alloy rear sprocket when it shows wear and you'll get a better run out of the chain.
3 - For a full service you really should be removing the swing arm pivot as well and giving that some fresh grease too. You can get most of the linkage out with the swingarm still on but it means you miss the front pivot and the actual bearings in the swingarm (rear underside) are harder to repack with it on the bike. To access lower shock mount just remove the front dogbone/linkage pivot at the rocker. Roll them down and you have access to the lower shock. Easy. Note: not sure if your 2011R uses the revised linkage that 2012 bikes used. If so its different to my 2010 and other 2011 models (and the shocks use different clevis').
4 -Haven't seen one either. Ask singletracker. Haha!
5- Start with a 175/172 main with that needle in a 250. For the AS2 stock float height is 6.5mm I think. 7-8mm is a better number due to the angle the carb sits in the frame at (lower fuel level).
6-
7-
8- Map switch is black with a toggle button. A cloud and some sunshine. Cloud retards the timing a bit softening up the bottom and mid. The Sun is fun. Ramps up harder faster. The timing changes can easily be lost in bad jetting. You'll notice once its dialled the switch will have more effect. I personally never use it (leave it on sunshine), but that's just me.

More good info- Thank you! The bike came w/ supersprox so I was concerned that I should get a regina o-ring to replace stocker. I will be removing everything for rear suspension, and kickstand! But it would be nice to be able to just grease linkage quickly. Not sure if it has 12' style linkage- I realize that there is so much I don't know about this bike!!
I was thinking about the main jet- I will start out with a 172, I like a crisp throttle response, and I am not a revver in the woods. Float will be tried at 8.5 mm like another member tried. I will try out the mapping when I have it jetted correctly- we ride in a lot of wet/mud/rain on daily basis

[Jakobi]

The stock chain is an o-ring chain A search might turn up which brand it is. I recall it being covered in the past. Its quality and will last well. Any alloy sprocket won't last too long. If its a Superproxx stealth thats ace. I've been running a 50T on mine for the last couple thousand kms with a DID x ring chain. Its holding up stellar. I ride my fair share of mud here in Aus too. Tracks here are a bit of everything from 1st and 2nd gear single to 3rd and 4the flowing trail, coupled in with some transport sections too.

Quickest way to check which linkage its got is to look at the low shock mount. On 2011 and previous the shock clevis is forked and sits either side of the mount. On the new ones the shock runs an eye similar to yamahas. I don't find the linkage hard to service, other than that you need about 6 different sized spanners to do it.

[gasgasman]

The old chains were made by Ossa. Don't know on the newer bikes.

There is really no reason to remove the subframe.
The shock can be removed out the right side of the bike. There's post on these forums on how to do it.

[swazi_matt]

i am sure my original chain was a Regina o-ring

[GMP]

12mm is borderline for preload. For best ride in the trash you want it less than 10 mm, even if you have to change springs to do it. Try it yourself, start at 12 and drop 1mm at a time, riding the same section of trail. If steering falls off, go back in and tune with compression. Sag is a guideline, because its only one variable in the steering equation, which also depends on fork setup. Get the rear to feel basically right, then you can fine tune the fork. You would be surprised how well they steer with well over 100 mm sag. The PFP fork is a bit stiff and may not settle enough when new so back The PFP out. I dropped my fork spring preload as well but start here first and get a few hours on the bike. Thats a great bike, proven chassis with a modern fork. Good luck!


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[adv rider]

I will change it to the main to 178, I was using my memory..which is terrible.
And being as I have no experience with this bike, I will try the 12mm preload and work from there. I figure it needs to break-in anyway, so what ever I start with will change after some time.
Usually I would set the sag at 100-105 and see where i'm at as far as spring rate. So this is throwing me off doing it by spring preload. But I will give it a try.

Sorry about my ignorance but... What is PFP? I really have no idea, and a search of it, came up with nothing

[adv rider]

Well bike is back together, fresh super unleaded ,put the 178 main in, Hour meter installed, check spokes- found most of left side spokes somewhat loose{ had a dull sound when hit with wrench} , set the rear shock preload@ 11MM
Having some wiring connection issues-noted in the electrical section
I was trying to set up the suspension clicker baseline- do I need a special socket for the fork preload? or can I just use a wrench?

Also the shock is confusing me- the manual shows a screwdriver slot on bottom of shock, but I just have a know to turn? It doesn't seem to have any clicks to it. Or is both reb/comp up top on reservoir?

I am having so much trouble with this-never dealt with Ohlin's/marzocchi before. I understand the kyb/showa stuff just fine. I still have no idea what PFP is?

[Jakobi]

The Ohlins shock has a rebound knob on the bottom just above the clevis. Turn it right all the way in until it seats. Then back it out to where you want it. Glenn says, be careful running less than 15 turns out as the cross over will start to interfer with the compression. If you don't believe it, close the rebound and try and push the bike down. If you come out too far the clicks will get fainter and fainter until it feels like its free wheeling. Compression clicker is at the top.

The forks. PFP is just that adjuster on the top inside the cap. I believe from memory its a 22mm socket that fits it. That may be what you're referring to as preload.

Clicker baseline - Start in the middle (say everything 15 clicks out) and ride slow. Make adjustments as neccessary. The suspension is no different to anything else really.

Check the spokes again after your first ride!

Now.. GO RIDE!!