Need help. Where to start

[Wypipo]

Had the carb apart for the first time today to see what wa in there.
N1EF on leanest clip.
170 main
42 pilot

Looking at my plug and amount of Spooge I am running rich. After 8 hours of a good mix of all throttle positions I pulled the plug and it was just a little rich, not too excessive and some small Spooge dripping.

Put an RK Tek head on, didn?t change jetting at all, gapped brand new plug to 0.018 and went for a 20 minute ride. There was the most Spooge I?ve ever seen. Not just a trail dripping but also looking at the pipe straight on was just a giant black circle all the way around the hole. I pulled the plug but the whole thing was still silver with just a drop of oil on the tip.

The bike won?t start cold without the choke
Doesn?t seem to be hanging idle (from the other thread I posted)

Riding in 3rd with the throttle barely cracked it sputters and cracks a bit and seems to try to chug along but it stays going. It doesn?t try to bog at all but it definitely doesn?t have that smooth electric feel. And this is barely cracked like just enough to make a difference past idle. Any more open and it smooths out.

Same throttle position in 3rd. And then opening the throttle wide it hesitated just barely and then gets on the pipe. I can?t get the front wheel off the ground when trying this.

I?m riding between 3-5,000 feet

I have an N3CH, NECJ and NEDW needles on the way.

Not sure where exactly to start first...main? Pilot? Needle? And what increments should I be going when changing jet sizes?
Not sure why so much Spooge with the RK Tek head and same jetting?

Thanks!

[dANbOT]

I'm not an engine expert, but in my experience: when you change something that increases power (such as porting, big bore, shaved or high compression head) your basically making a stronger air pump out of the engine, and it can draw a stronger signal on the carburetor making the jetting too rich. I have found that i needed to lean out the jetting to compensate for this effect.... a wild guess at 2 steps leaner on the main and pilot

But... that pesky stock needle would never tune very well for me or many others, I always had some small lean or rich spot that was bothering me somewhere lol. Your likely to have to jet from scratch with your new needles anyways. I have had a great experience with the suzuki NExx needles, a huge improvement over stock.
This is all assuming you don't have a leak, or mechanical problem of course.

Others may be able to help you with setup for your specific needles, but for what its worth here's my setup for 3000 to 7000 feet at 10 to 30 Celsius:

S3 Stars head with highest compression insert/ and thin base gasket to correct squish gap
NEDW #2 clip for warmer temp / #3 for spring and fall
35 pilot
air screw 1 out + or - for large temp swings
165 main
*

I get moderate spooge with a Qstealth muffler, smokes a little but I like a slightly rich mid-range for torque. Idles forever and barely loads up.

[Jakobi]

The N1EF is probably too lean on that clip position, and the clip will have been lifted to try and compensate for the overly rich small throttle response, which you probably won't be able to jet out with that needle.

The problems with the bolt on heads are that you still have a load of variables in terms of piston to head clearance (squish) and compression ratio, unless if you took the time to spec them up.

When your needles arrive you'll have something to work with.

I'd use the NEDW#3 with the jets you have. Make sure you drop the idle speed right down nice and low.

[Wypipo]

Thanks I?ll wait for the needles to come and start over

[Davehuge]

Hi Wypipo

Is the bike new to you? I guess it is as it sounds like the first time you've opened the carb to see what's in there.

Before you start tuning the jetting, check the basics...

Clean air filter.
Check exhaust silencer is clear and not blocked (may sound daft but worth checking).
Check float height and operation of float valve.
Strip and clean carb, check all jets and orifices are clear.

All the best, Dave.

[Wypipo]

Thanks Dave yes the bike is brand new. The only thing I have not done yet is check the float height and clean the carb but it is a brand new carb. Is there an easy trick to getting the carb off of these bikes without having to loosen the subframe?