2012 300 - Ohlins rear shock

[Jakobi]

I'm not talking huge logs. About 30cm I'd say. You know, around 1/4 to 1/2 the height of the front wheel. Anything smaller seems to go un-noticed. Lofting the front wheel completely over this sized seems to soak the impact up flawlessly, but if I punch the front end into it (still lofting but into the object) then the back seems to kick up. No superman style but definitely higher than I'd like. Issue is more pronounced as the speed increases. Jumping larger logs at a more appropriate speed is a non issue. Just when ripping along in 3rd or 4th gear and hitting something you weren't expecting or didn't have the right gear to get the front right over.

What would you think it is based on that info?

Dave at Suspension Matters will work on the Ohlins and uses a very indivual approach to tuning. I would have no issues express posting to him and having it back in no time. Terry Hay of shocktreatment also knows his stuff like the back of his hand and is always on the front line developing his knowledge base. The city (if you'd call it that) where I live is small and you're flat out finding a shop I'd trust to service a shock let alone revalve one. There are a few people who I would but they don't do it anymore unless on special favours.

[GMP]

I don't know, hard to say. Can you tell if its a compression or rebound issue?

Terry Hay is well known. You need a guy that knows his way around a TTX, and knows how to valve it for off road. The problem is that there are so few, these guys have not had the opportunity to develop a knowledge base. You may have the shock in and out a few times before its right.

[GasTimppa]

My TTX has been revalved. Only thing that needed to do was to add some rebound. That took "back kicking" away. Now It's right on the spot as far as I can say...

Originally Posted by Jakobi

I'm not talking huge logs. About 30cm I'd say. You know, around 1/4 to 1/2 the height of the front wheel. Anything smaller seems to go un-noticed. Lofting the front wheel completely over this sized seems to soak the impact up flawlessly, but if I punch the front end into it (still lofting but into the object) then the back seems to kick up. No superman style but definitely higher than I'd like. Issue is more pronounced as the speed increases. Jumping larger logs at a more appropriate speed is a non issue. Just when ripping along in 3rd or 4th gear and hitting something you weren't expecting or didn't have the right gear to get the front right over.

What would you think it is based on that info?

Dave at Suspension Matters will work on the Ohlins and uses a very indivual approach to tuning. I would have no issues express posting to him and having it back in no time. Terry Hay of shocktreatment also knows his stuff like the back of his hand and is always on the front line developing his knowledge base. The city (if you'd call it that) where I live is small and you're flat out finding a shop I'd trust to service a shock let alone revalve one. There are a few people who I would but they don't do it anymore unless on special favours.

[Jakobi]

Thanks GT. I think you might be right on the money. Last ride I was adding more rebound control and I think I might be down to about 8 clicks out now. I'm always worried about it packing down though. I don't know exactly what Marty at Ohlins did but I told him my symptoms. Its definitely a bit better than it was but still a bit more room for improvement.

Originally I felt it was a compression issue as it would feel like the back wheel just couldn't react fast enough to a stray rock/square edge and would deflect instead of soaking up. Now I think its soaking things up a bit better. As I'm using more travel I think I'm needing a bit more rebound control to hold it together. My thinking is that because its handling better when hitting it rear wheel first that its taking more impact and thus using more compression, where if its a front wheel impact and then back its not reacting fast enough in the HSC. I could be way wrong too. I'm not really switched on when it comes to these things.

[wence]

Jake,
I am currently practising for the Melbourne enduro x on the size logs you are talking about.
If I come up in mid range in second and basically wheelie over the log from a couple of metres the shock seems to soak up the log, but if I wheelie into the log hitting it 2/3 up the rear kicks like you say.
I already feel like I have heaps of rebound dampening on it as it almost feels dead if I push it down and let it return.
It is great in fast whoops and pretty good everywhere else so I have just learned to live with it.
Cheers Mark

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by wence

Jake,
I am currently practising for the Melbourne enduro x on the size logs you are talking about.
If I come up in mid range in second and basically wheelie over the log from a couple of metres the shock seems to soak up the log, but if I wheelie into the log hitting it 2/3 up the rear kicks like you say.
I already feel like I have heaps of rebound dampening on it as it almost feels dead if I push it down and let it return.
It is great in fast whoops and pretty good everywhere else so I have just learned to live with it.
Cheers Mark

Exactly whats happening, although second gear not so much an issue. 3rd and 4th gear it starts to get hairy. Probably cause its all happening so much faster.

[wence]

Yep, tried it in third and it was interesting to say the least???

[Jakobi]

Hahah! Nice one Mark.

Its actually got me wondering if it could be that the forks are plusher than the shock? No idea *shrugs* I should ask a professional..

To the op. Sorry for hijacking your thread. Back on topic I can say that I have no regrets laying the coin out for the TTX. Its probably something I would even do again if purchasing another bike. Its not 100% perfect but no suspension is for all conditions, however it does everything very well and it performs consistantly. My pace has improved a lot since fitting the TTX both ends. Yeah it cost a bit more than it would have to revalve both ends of my existing setup, but even then it all depends on the tuner and there is no promise that their setup will be right on the money either. If the parts where available at the right price I wouldn't hesitate. Its bling, for the eyes, and for the purpose. Plus then you get to keep a spare shock for servicing time.

[GMP]

Maybe you should get the tools and start servicing/valving the shock yourself. Thats what I would do if I had one and no one else had ay better ideas.

Don't they have a shorter service interval than a conventional shock?

[StuJohnson]

Jake
You all did not hijack my op.
This is the kind of discussion I like and learn a lot from it.
Keep you posted on what I end up doing.
Thanks