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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


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  #21  
Old 01-14-2013, 01:26 AM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Originally Posted by GMP View Post
Maybe you should get the tools and start servicing/valving the shock yourself. Thats what I would do if I had one and no one else had ay better ideas.

Don't they have a shorter service interval than a conventional shock?
But you are way more mechanically savvy than I am Glenn Its something I have considered. Just a lot of money to invest in tools and I'd like to know that I would be able to do it properly myself before dropping them.

When Dave from STM brings his wife over for a holiday it'll be just right


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  #22  
Old 01-14-2013, 08:18 PM
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GMP GMP is offline
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I don't like being completely dependent on someone else for service. Sure, I'll send my shock out for an initial revalve and off season rebuild if needed, but I like to have the option to at least do a quick oil change if needed before a race. It has happened to me.

I still find it interesting why at least some of our pros and pro teams, who can run what they want, don't run this shock. Even in SX/MX were the $$ is.
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  #23  
Old 01-24-2013, 08:10 PM
onegreyghost onegreyghost is offline
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Default ttx

If you afford the ttx purchase it, you will not be disappointed. I have had it on two GG'S. I had a 2010 six day that come stock with sachs on both ends and replaced it with ttx. My only complaint was that the front would bottom easily. I then purchased a 2011 Nambo that come stock with a ttx in the rear and 48 mm zokes up front. Sent the fork to Les and had them revalved but they were never as good as the Ohlins ttx. I then took the 48 zokes to Ohlins and had them install the ttx cartridges and never looked back. I just recently had both the shock and fork serviced and told the tech about some minor handling issues and he revalved both ends of the bike. You couldn't believe how plush it rides now. Totally remarkable. The famous Mike Brown from KTM rides at my mother's on a very frequent basis and was impressed as well. We have a 32 mile single track loop and it has it all from roots to rocks to creek jumps that can really push the suspension to its capable limits. One other update is that the new ttx front cartridge has been updated and resists bottoming much better. If your ever in TN look me up and I will let you ride it.
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  #24  
Old 02-27-2013, 12:22 PM
BEEBOB BEEBOB is offline
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My son Scott raced his '13 300e to 5th place in open class at our national enduro last saturday He complained of the rough track and sore lower back and kidneys, So today went out to observe suspension behavior, the bike has sachs rear and 48mm cc forks.
Noticed that when riding straight into,no pre-loading or bunnyhopping, a 20cm high square edge rock in 3rd /4th gear, the rear would bounce up about 1m into the air, pretty eye opening. The hs comp was 8 clicks out, comp 10 and rebound 10. I adjusted the hs comp all the way out 22 clicks to observe the diffs, and attacked the same rock same speed. Guess what, the rear only kicked up about 50cm, wow! . But now the shock felt solid while sitting and bouncing up and down, like the rebound was now way too slow. Adjusted the rebound to 15 clicks out and voila, looked and felt good. Then adjusted hs comp back to 15 clicks out. Now he could actually hit the rock even faster and safer, the poor rims and mousses. So perhaps you could look at slackening of the hs comp on the Ohlins too
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  #25  
Old 02-27-2013, 04:56 PM
STEVEV STEVEV is offline
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Originally Posted by BEEBOB View Post
My son Scott raced his '13 300e to 5th place in open class at our national enduro last saturday He complained of the rough track and sore lower back and kidneys, So today went out to observe suspension behavior, the bike has sachs rear and 48mm cc forks.
Noticed that when riding straight into,no pre-loading or bunnyhopping, a 20cm high square edge rock in 3rd /4th gear, the rear would bounce up about 1m into the air, pretty eye opening. The hs comp was 8 clicks out, comp 10 and rebound 10. I adjusted the hs comp all the way out 22 clicks to observe the diffs, and attacked the same rock same speed. Guess what, the rear only kicked up about 50cm, wow! . But now the shock felt solid while sitting and bouncing up and down, like the rebound was now way too slow. Adjusted the rebound to 15 clicks out and voila, looked and felt good. Then adjusted hs comp back to 15 clicks out. Now he could actually hit the rock even faster and safer, the poor rims and mousses. So perhaps you could look at slackening of the hs comp on the Ohlins too
Have you ever dealt with Hilton Hayward? He seems to really know his stuff.
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  #26  
Old 02-27-2013, 07:10 PM
motomickey motomickey is offline
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Originally Posted by StuJohnson View Post
Can someone tell me what the difference is between the OEM Ohlins rear shock.
The 888 vs the new Ohlins one they have that is the TTX?
I see the Guillaume EC Replicas have this shock as OEM from GG.
Thanks
stu, i have a brand new ttx for sale for a 2012 model
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  #27  
Old 02-27-2013, 09:07 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Originally Posted by motomickey View Post
stu, i have a brand new ttx for sale for a 2012 model
Why would you take a TTX shock off a bike? Just curious.. Unless if you were a dealer and just blingin on the showroom floor and the buyer didn't want to part with the extra coins.

I've got the 2011 TTX shock and Fork inserts on my 2010. I have been well impressed with the forks action. Can't fault them and between clickers and oil volume I have been able to tune them to everywhere I ride. The shock however has caused me all sorts of pain. Its better than the stock 888 shock it replaced out of the crate (neither revalved, stock vs stock). The range of adjustability in the clickers has been great, but I have not had it handle square edged hits fast yet. Similar to as above - 20cm square edge equates to the back end trying to overtake the front. Its not confidence inspiring. It also suffered from a broken shaft at 50hrs in its life. During repair addressed the high speed damping and while it was a small improvement its still not where it needs to be. Don't think that buying a TTX is simply a bolt and good to go experience. They still need to be setup same as everything else, but once done they are very very nice to ride. The only gripe then is the shortish maintenance intervals.
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