My either Crazy or that knocking /pinging is BAD...

[stainlesscycle]

lower your idle. let the bike come to temp. shoot vid. zing the throttle a few times during the vid, and let it return to idle. maybe pull the choke for a second to see if it dies or calms down...that will tell a lot more.

plug look good? quality 2t oil, and proper mix? does clutch lever make noise go away?

i do know this, they get real noisy when you lose all the radiator fluid

mine is quieter than all of these vids, but it's all brand new top and bottom last week...

[Scar13]

Idle lowered in first Video

zing the throttle as requested in both vids

, and let it return to idle. maybe pull the choke Bike died in Video two


plug look good looks perfect ( maybe a bit rich ) quality 2t oil, YES SIR and proper mix?50-1 does clutch lever make noise go away negative pulled in both videos


First Video at 16 seconds you can really hear it, Sounds like a OLD diesel Tractor..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdKLk...yKgxEI-K8garjS

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chVad...OhsH-B2bQLkKp6

[Jakobi]

First video does sound better for sure.

I can hear the noise you speak of and mine sounds very similar. I can confirm that a fresh top end will reduce the noise considerably. I'm back at 80hrs now and don't have a vid from when mine was fresh.

I also believe the noise is reflected back by the aluminium bash plate which makes it sound much louder than it should.

What size jug is on it? If it really concerns you a top end is easy enough to drop in. You could also take a peek in the exhaust port to inspect how much wear is showing on the piston skirt, and if there's much blow by past the rings.

[Scar13]

Hi Jakobi,

This Bike MAY have a total of 20 hours on it.. What do I need to do to put a new top end in it??

[Jakobi]

MAY as in unknown history? A top end kit and a few spare hours is all you need. Some basic tools. I'll try dig up a link to another forum with a step by step with pics.

[Jakobi]

From: http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/s...hlight=rebuild

Decided to have a look inside the Gasser this morning as it's done 70hrs now. Here's how I did it.

Remove seat, tank, expansion chamber and radiator shrouds. Drain coolant by removing drain screw in waterpump.





Disconnect lower radiator hoses on both sides. Remove lower radiator mounting bolts and pivot radiators forward. You may need to disconnect the small hoses to the expansion tank as well. This allows access to the cylinder head brace bolt and more room to remove the cylinder. Unbolt water fitting from cylinder head and pull back out of the way. Remove both powervalve covers.

[Jakobi]

Remove 8mm nut and washer securing powervalve linkage and unhook linkage from powervalve.



Remove cylinder head brace bolt and loosen bolt on other end of brace. Pivot brace out of the way. It's not necessary to remove the cylinder head to do the job but I did so I could measure my squish. Remove the 4 nuts holding the base of the cylinder and remove cylinder. It's easiest to do if you have the piston at BDC.

[Jakobi]

Clean all gasket surfaces and fit new base baskets (the number and thickness will vary, I left the stock thickness). Fit new piston and rings. Ready to go back together.



Reassemble in reverse order and fill with coolant, job done. In retrospect it could have easily gone to 100hrs or more.

[stainlesscycle]

check your cylinder to frame mount bolts, and exhaust o-rings.... maybe something rattling there? it does not sound terrible.....

it could be noise bouncing back from skid plate, i have foam between plate and frame...

[Neil E.]

Was the second video recorded just after the first one? Meaning the first one was with the engine cold, then the second one was with the engine warmer from running.

First video sounds like cold engine piston slap. Second video sounds almost normal.