Rebuild

[hadfield4wd]

Originally Posted by GGRider01

Interesting, I didn't know that. I got those from Wiseco's website, if I recall. By the way, before tearing into it, I highly recommend getting one of these for the rebuild. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

It's that or use a standard 13mm wrench and put a half inch drive torque wrench in the open end at a right angle to the wrench to torque the cylinder down. There are two nuts that reside behind the power valve covers, one on each side. This tool will make it much easier. Using it at a right angle negates the need to do math to get the proper torque specs with the adapter.

Wiseco makes ProX pistons. They are generally OEM replacements. Cast some are forged but I've never seen one. I've used ProX several times with no issue. In performance bikes though I do forged Wiseco.

Go info about that wrench. Thanks. Little tricks like this are great.

[hadfield4wd]

Parts are showing up!!

[mwinschel]

I am getting ready to do a top end on my new to me EC200. Wossner B kit on the way...I keep reading about needle bearing width. Wossner rep had no idea what I was talking about for this. Do I need anything more than the kit for this if I am just swapping out piston and rings?

[hadfield4wd]

I don't know. I thought the needle bearing had to do with buying a CR piston. I guess I'll find out tuesday

[GGRider01]

Every piston kit I've bought comes with a wrist pin and needle bearing. You should be good to go.

[hadfield4wd]

Originally Posted by GGRider01

Interesting, I didn't know that. I got those from Wiseco's website, if I recall. By the way, before tearing into it, I highly recommend getting one of these for the rebuild. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

It's that or use a standard 13mm wrench and put a half inch drive torque wrench in the open end at a right angle to the wrench to torque the cylinder down. There are two nuts that reside behind the power valve covers, one on each side. This tool will make it much easier. Using it at a right angle negates the need to do math to get the proper torque specs with the adapter.

So my little tool came in. I assume I need to use it with a beam style torque wrench versus a clicker? And what math do I do to allow for the extra 2"?

What is the torque spec for the head and cylinder?

I've build countless motors (small block v8's) with a finally tuned hand for torquing manifold bolts. If you've ever worked on a 350 you know what I'm talking about.

[pscook]

Originally Posted by hadfield4wd

So my little tool came in. I assume I need to use it with a beam style torque wrench versus a clicker? And what math do I do to allow for the extra 2"?

What is the torque spec for the head and cylinder?

I've build countless motors (small block v8's) with a finally tuned hand for torquing manifold bolts. If you've ever worked on a 350 you know what I'm talking about.

Clicker is fine, just make sure you are at 90* and no math is required. If you really want to do the math, click here. For fun, put the value A at 90, and you get no deviation. And if you set value A at 45, it's a 7.5% difference in torque values. Basically, don't sweat it too much, but try to keep it as close to 90* as possible.

[hadfield4wd]

Well apparently the Wiseco is a B.



What does this mean?



Also which base gasket should I use? I want it stock should I measure the one that came out?

Edit. .56 came out. .5 going in assuming there is swelling.

[hadfield4wd]

Damnit man!!! I always do something bone headed. This time i dropped the stupid nut that holds the power valve rod on down the hole. How do I access where it went? I pulled the clutch cover off. I can't see it do I have to pull the cylinder back off?

***edit***

pulled the clutch cover and clutch. Got the nut. releaved. I'll be inspecting my clutch now.

[PEB]

I would not be concerned with the "390" marking. The crack around the skirt of the jug might perk my interest.