Rebuild

[Zman]

Our 1998 6day 250 had a 2k2 ignition and flywheel that had an additional magnet flywheel that bolted to the 2k2 flywheel. This magnet flywheel rotated inside a separate stator that was located within the metal ignition cover.

[RBrider]

Originally Posted by Zman

Our 1998 6day 250 had a 2k2 ignition and flywheel that had an additional magnet flywheel that bolted to the 2k2 flywheel. This magnet flywheel rotated inside a separate stator that was located within the metal ignition cover.

Even if Hatfield's bike has the light FW, someone may have added a FWW to it sometime in the past. Best to pull the cover and see what's what before spending any money.

RB

[hadfield4wd]

Looks like 2 oclock to me.



Also this thing is a tractor I don't want to take anything more away.

[jostby]

yes, that's the 2K3 ignition. Heavier mass and more voltage output than the 2K2. You should pull that cover and see if you have the counterbalancer. It's noticeable behind the "hump" of the cover, right where your wiring enters. Later models still had that hump and the same cover but nothing is there.

[hadfield4wd]

Originally Posted by jostby

yes, that's the 2K3 ignition. Heavier mass and more voltage output than the 2K2. You should pull that cover and see if you have the counterbalancer. It's noticeable behind the "hump" of the cover, right where your wiring enters. Later models still had that hump and the same cover but nothing is there.

So based on this.

I am assuming no counter balancer?

[slocalspode]

I'd say so.
This is my '98 EC250SM with the Ducati Stator and counter balancer.

I am surprised that your '99 has the 2K3 and not the old style Ducati system.
I thought GG changed the stator in 2000.
This is picture of the right side with the gears for the balancer.

If you look close there are two dots in the gears that are supposed to
be aligned. They are not in this picture. Like this the bike vibrated like a paint
mixer. Once aligned it is the smoothed 2-stroke I have ever seen.
Hope this helps. Cheers.

[Moto7man]

Originally Posted by GGRider01

Interesting, I didn't know that. I got those from Wiseco's website, if I recall. By the way, before tearing into it, I highly recommend getting one of these for the rebuild. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

It's that or use a standard 13mm wrench and put a half inch drive torque wrench in the open end at a right angle to the wrench to torque the cylinder down. There are two nuts that reside behind the power valve covers, one on each side. This tool will make it much easier. Using it at a right angle negates the need to do math to get the proper torque specs with the adapter.

Go to post #15 on the thread below to see a picture of the two wrench configuration. This thread also shows how build a leak down tester to make sure your top end doesn't have any air leaks.

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/sho...t=19892&page=2