300 base gasket choices?

[husley]

So I think I learning that there are different base gasket thicknesses available for my 10' 300?

If so, I would like some more bottom end grunt as I am rarely on the revs

Thanks!

J

[djroggen]

All bikes are different, and require a different stack for the same/similar characteristics. My 300, I believe I have 2 thick, and 1 thin gasket. The amount of gaskets do not matter, it is how they line up in comparison to the piston in bottom dead center. I put the piston at BDC and made it level with the exhaust port.

This made my bike into a torque monster.

It is so linear, it is unreal. I just twist the throttle and it hooks up and lugs like no other.

[twowheels]

They come in 0.15, 0.30, and 0.50mm versions, so mix and match to your heart's content. Just remember your compression is changing along with your port timing when you change the stack.

Originally Posted by husley

So I think I learning that there are different base gasket thicknesses available for my 10' 300?

If so, I would like some more bottom end grunt as I am rarely on the revs

Thanks!

J

[djroggen]

There are Thick which is .5 MM, a .3 and a .15. You can get it dialed in really well with the different gaskets. All are stack-able to your liking and need.

[Jakobi]

Compression ratio changes, and so does your squish clearance. A stock head will have a decent clearance to start with so moving the cylinder lower will tighten up that clearance, increase compression, and move power curve downwards (both through comp and port timing).

Setting the piston edge flush with the base of the exhaust port at bdc is your configuration for peak HP. Usually takes a bit from the bottom and stuffs it up top.

Before just slip slop slapping any old stack in there I'd think about what you want to achieve. Then set the stack, and then have someone machine the head to suit that stack and your purpose and fuels. I wouldn't drop 1mm of gaskets out without checking the port timing and squish clearance first. I'd probably CC everything before pulling it down to calc the CR too.

[husley]

Thanks for everyone's input, very informative. But I am missing a part of the puzzle:

I would like more low end and I am willing to sacrifice top end for torque. In order to do this I would use a thinner or thicker base gasket set (relative to the existing/stock)?

If I get a Wossner top end kit will it have all the gasket thickness I need to chose from or would I order them seperate from gofasters, etc?

Thank!

J

[twowheels]

I use stock gaskets and Wossner piston kits. All that's missing then is the wrist pin bearing which we also have.

PlusOnePerformance

[husley]

Okie Dokie

How would thicker vs thinner base gasket effect performance?

[twowheels]

Dustin and Jake pretty much nailed it. If you pile gaskets on you'll likely need to have the head re-done.
Most of the 300s I've seen have been 0.5mm stock.

PlusOnePerformance

[pscook]

Originally Posted by husley

Okie Dokie

How would thicker vs thinner base gasket effect performance?

From my homework, thinner base gaskets increases bottom end at sacrifice of top end and thicker gaskets increases top end at sacrifice of bottom end. If you set the piston even with the floor of the exhaust port you get great top end. Having the piston above the port floor moves the power lower in the revs. The explanation is that having the piston low enough to fully expose the open port, and then close it early in the compression cycle, provides lots of power at full RPM. Having the piston above the floor at BDC reduces port opening at BDC but closes later on compression, providing low end performance.

Confused yet? Thick gasket stack = top end, thin stack = bottom end (all other things being equal). Make sure to confirm your squish is no less than 1.2mm and no more than 1.8mm when all is said and done. Anything outside of that needs some professional help cutting the head.