#111
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Great news!!
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#112
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Good outcome munch!
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#113
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So I took it out and it was both good and bad.
I started off for about 15min taking it really easy since it's all fresh, I started to use the powerband occasionally but not hard (seconds at a time). After about 30min the powerband stopped working, power was great right up until top end and it was just flat. I took the powervalve cover off and noticed that my bad attempt at fixing a previous problem had come off so play was present in the powervalve mechanism. That is now fixed and powerband is great. Next up is my clutch. It doesn't work when the bike is off, I know most 2 strokes have problems with clutch if it isn't started and warm but this clutch simply does not work if it's off, no "almost working" it just is locked up. The only way it "works" is by going through the gearbox which seems to free up the clutch plates or something but the clutch still drags like crazy so it's very very hard to push. I can't find neutral either so I have the bike in gear and hold clutch in and kick and it will jolt me forward a little (pretty normal, happened on a few previous bikes) and then it will start. Also once the bike is running I can pull in the clutch and it will work fine. Once the bike is cut it doesn't work. Only thing I've done differently is I'm using 10w40 oil, I have bought some 10w30 that I plan to put in could this possibly fix my issue? I'm thinking because of what I wrote earlier it isn't the oil. (Works when bike is on, doesn't work if bike isn't running even if it's hot, works if I switch through gears but drags like hell) Also the clutch bolts where the springs are I didn't do up super tight, I am super scared of torqueing them because the torque wrench I have is big and I have previous experiences of snapping screws inside the basket. |
#114
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Wet clutches are often "sticky" after the bike sits for several days. The first time you engage a gear, the bike jerks a bit as the plates come free. This is normal and it's the only time you should have this occur.
Always find neutral as you come to a stop. Normal clutch drag makes it difficult if you stop first. The gearbox should shift smoothly at all times. Oil choice will make some difference. Many guys have good luck with Shell Rotella diesel oil (0W40). Diesel oil is good since is does not have the "friction modifiers" that are in automotive oils. It sounds like your clutch is not set up correctly. You should feel the lever moving the plates. Some drag is normal, but you have too much. This will round off the gear dogs and maybe that's how your problems all began.
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2011 EC250E |
#115
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Quote:
Also before the rebuild I had no clutch issues at all and only the 2 cogs I have shown in the thread had any wear so hopefully that shows it wasn't a bad clutch that caused the previous damage. |
#116
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The only time I've heard of this is when an auto clutch has been installed. Models without a manual over-ride require motor rotation to disengage. I've never had an auto crutch so I can't advise you better.
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2011 EC250E |
#117
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Quote:
Could it be a bleeding issue? |
#118
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If the outer plate pushed out when you pull the clutch, it isn't likely a bleeding issue. When the bike is running, the clutch worked?
I would have thought that a 30 min ride would be enough to get the clutch good and wet, but sticking clutch fibers was my first guess as well. Those fibers should be good and soaked in oil before stacking them up. Another thing to check would be grooves in the clutch basket fingers. If the fingers are grooved, they can cause problems and make the fibers stick. |
#119
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I left my bike with a friend to do some last bits and bobs and he said he bled my clutch with DOT 4 brake/clutch fluid, I've now done some googling and found it's meant to be mineral oil. Could this be the cause? (My cap doesn't tell me what to use, it's an aftermarket cap) I am also using 10w40 oil, I have bought some 10w30, worth trying it? Also clutch bolts going into clutch weren't done up very tight at all. Could this be causing it? |
#120
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The bolts holding the clutch plate on only need 8-10Nm, not a lot by any means.
The AJP clutch master uses mineral oil. DOT4 will do bad things to all the seals. May require a rebuild now A flush or two and you might get lucky. Did you check the fingers of the basket to see if they are notched? As others have said, its not uncommon for there to be some drag, and not uncommon for the discs to stick if the bike has sat for a while. I tend to grab 2nd gear and rock the bike a few times before going back to neutral to start it. After that it just works. |
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