Carb Removal

[carlg]

Another newb question regarding removing the carburator. I've found that unbolting the subframe to be the easiet way to accomplish this. The bike is going on ten years old and the rubber boot doesn't seem to be very flexible, so I didn't have much luck with the subframe in the normal position. Is it generally possible to get the carb in and out without unbolting the subframe? If so it might be time to think about replacing the rubber boot, thanks Carl.

[stainlesscycle]

if the intake boot is 10 years old, it's probably time to replace. better safe then sorry. a small crack can make for a very expensive rebuild..

i never loosen subframe.

if the airbox boot is still pliable, i jam a prybar between the frame and airbox boot and pull back . i find it's easier to pull out with carb top off and carb rotated 90 degrees. if both airbox boot and intake boot are hard as a rock, or if it's cold, it can be tough..

[widebear]

Heat the boot with a hair dryer or heat gun, pull back just far enough to clear the carb, heat to repeat.

[pevs]

Originally Posted by widebear

Heat the boot with a hair dryer or heat gun, pull back just far enough to clear the carb, heat to repeat.

+1 a lot easier with heat from hair dryer

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by carlg

Another newb question regarding removing the carburator. I've found that unbolting the subframe to be the easiet way to accomplish this. The bike is going on ten years old and the rubber boot doesn't seem to be very flexible, so I didn't have much luck with the subframe in the normal position. Is it generally possible to get the carb in and out without unbolting the subframe? If so it might be time to think about replacing the rubber boot, thanks Carl.

You can remove it with the subframe in place but it's tricky in my opinion. I tend to think it's easier to loosen the subframe rather than risk damaging something. Yes heat helps quite a bit. You know you can change all the jets and needle without removing it? You just loosen and rotate the carb as appropriate.

[carlg]

Thanks for all the replies. It would appear that this process is something that you wouldn't want to do out on the trail. I suppose it might be wise to check into replacing all of the rubber pieces on the intake tract just as a precaution. This whole topic came up due to the fact that I wanted to change the pilot jet. It's not accessable from the drain plug and I guess I wasn't comfortable removing the float bowl with the carb still on the bike. Nice to know that it does take a bit of work to get the carb removed.

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by carlg

Thanks for all the replies. It would appear that this process is something that you wouldn't want to do out on the trail. I suppose it might be wise to check into replacing all of the rubber pieces on the intake tract just as a precaution. This whole topic came up due to the fact that I wanted to change the pilot jet. It's not accessable from the drain plug and I guess I wasn't comfortable removing the float bowl with the carb still on the bike. Nice to know that it does take a bit of work to get the carb removed.

No problem removing float bowl in place. Loosen the rubbers either side, rotate one way and remove top of carb with slide and needle attached. Rotate opposite way so float bowl is up above horizontal, 45 deg or something. Remove float bowl watching out for the little dowel that the float pivots on as it will just slide out, on the floor and roll off somewhere! Gently remove otherwise along with float and needle from needle valve. There you are access to pilot and main.

You may have to remove your chain guard or case saver - mine just needs loosening otherwise the carb just catches it when you rotate it.

After a few times you can do this in a couple of minutes.

[eff]

I place a rag under the carb to catch the pin if it does fall out.

[skid jackson]

Originally Posted by iancp5

You may have to remove your chain guard or case saver - mine just needs loosening otherwise the carb just catches it when you rotate it.

.

my ltr case guard gets in the way. Loosen that up and you get clutch fluid on the floor. However with both boot clamps lose I can bull dog the float bowl around it.

[GMP]

Trim a little material off the top and it clears the drain bolt.