Warning

[iancp5]

GasGas manuals are dangerous!

Am I wrong to say that - comments?

The M6 screws that hold the sprag clutch assembly are quoted in the 2005 engine manual as 26Nm. I think that is beyond the yield of any commonly available bolts even 12.9 class which is what I used and was the highest tensile strength I could find. I didn't check the manual but stopped torquing when I felt a couple start to yield which was round about 22Nm Retrospectively checking the max torque according to bolt fastener manufacturers it is 17Nm. Does that mean I need to start again? Or will they be ok?

I wonder if that is why they failed in the first place? Either that or the fact there was no loctite on them.

[stevethebrit]

http://www.gasgasrider.org/torque_table.jpg
Print this and put it on your garage wall.....

[GMP]

My sheet from years ago.

You can generally use industry standard values based on fastener size and material. Also, if you use anti-seize on the bolts, reduce torque 20 -30%, as specs are dry threads.

[rpduc]

Yes the various manuals have some spec errors from what I've seen. Like one of the owners manuals calls for 1800cc of tranny oil...

And to answer your question about using the bolts that were over torqued, I would say definitely not if you started to "feel them yield." That means they are stretching or threads are giving out. For the cost of a couple new bolts I sure wouldn't use them.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/M_bolts.html

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by rpduc

Yes the various manuals have some spec errors from what I've seen. Like one of the owners manuals calls for 1800cc of tranny oil...

And to answer your question about using the bolts that were over torqued, I would say definitely not if you started to "feel them yield." That means they are stretching or threads are giving out. For the cost of a couple new bolts I sure wouldn't use them.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/M_bolts.html

Yeah I know you're right it's just that they are a right pain to get at. Also thinking it may be a problem getting them out. If they break it might mean a new starter clutch as I've loctited them in. So what chance of removing if the heads come off.

[rpduc]

I obviously know nothing about the sprague clutch assembly since I have a 2 smoke, so I'm clueless about stress on those particular bolts or how accessible they are. If there are several bolts maybe a couple baddies will be ok. Just sayin'.... if they failed once...

Even red loctite is not a problem if you hit it with sufficient heat before you try loosening the bolts. I use red loctite on the 30mm fine thread alternator nut on my Duc and have had that thing off several times. In your situation I'd use heat even if you only used blue loctite, just as a precaution.

[iancp5]

I guess it needs to be quite hot as I used the blue loctite 243? I think - the one designed for engine internals. Will the heat effect the magnets at all? Would hate to screw those up or it'll be a whole new flywheel and sprag assembly!

Edit:
After writing the above I started Googling. It seems magnets will lose their magnetism if heated above a certain temperature. The specific temp varies depending on the material of the magnet. It can vary from 150 - 800 deg C depending on the material. So maybe I wont heat it!

[rpduc]

Blue loctite does not normally require heat for removal. I just mentioned it because you thought some of the bolts were over-stressed.

[iancp5]

Going to see if I can get them out this weekend. I'll try warming with a heat gun to help and that should stop me overheating.

Update:
Phew! They all came out no bother.

Next job linkage and swingarm bearings