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Enduro Electrical & Wiring Lighting, Ignition, Wiring, Plugs, etc.


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Old 07-25-2018, 01:13 PM
Homerocks1 Homerocks1 is offline
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Default 2014 xc300R DC and Light Issues.

Hello All,

I am not metering any voltage on the DC side of my regulator/rectifier. Here's what is going on...

I recently purchased a 14' XC300R without electric start. The bike runs great, but neither the headlight, running light(the small light under the headlamp inside the bezel), or tail/brake lights are working. The bike does not have turn signals, horn, speedometer, battery or electric start. There are also no controls on the handlebars for anything other than an engine kill switch.

After downloading the wiring diagram and beginning to trace wires on the bike, I have found that behind the headlamp, all of the connections were simply disconnected, and it appears that they may have been connected to handlebar controls at some point. Did they make this bike as mine currently is or did the previous owner remove all of the handlebar switching? The tail/brake lights were disconnected from the harness too. I will have to make my own contacts to get everything to work, which isn't a big deal.

The problem is that while the bike is running I am metering 20-21 volts AC on the stator side of the bike, but I am getting no DC voltage on the DC side of the regulator/rectifier. I have metered various DC+ to various ground locations. I also metered the contacts at the regulator/rectifier. The results are still 20-21 volts ac and no voltage DC.

I don't see any fuses anywhere and the wiring all appears to be in pretty good condition. Is there a way to check to see if the reg/rectifier is bad? Because there are exposed DC+ wires and connectors just hanging behind the headlight could they have shorted while touching the frame while riding thus damaging the reg/rectifier?

Thanks for any help. I started reading about AC/DC systems in bikes just yesterday so I'm not very knowledgeable on the subject.

20180724_113428.jpg

20180720_001446.jpg


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Old 07-26-2018, 11:02 AM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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The blue and white wires in the female disconnect may not be factory. Using the 14 owner's manual, go through all the wiring and compare it to both diagrams. You should be able to verify how the bike started out. It's likely a non-estart bike, but it is possible that someone pulled all the parts from the estart version.

Non-estart should have a simplified loom. Another indicator is that there should be a capacitor somewhere as shown in the non-estart diagram. The regulator/rectifier is the same unit for both variants of the machine. If you can match the wiring to the non-estart diagram and all the connections look good, I'd say just buy a new voltage RR and try it. At least you have AC power from the stator so there's no need to pull the flywheel.
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Old 07-26-2018, 01:32 PM
Homerocks1 Homerocks1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil E. View Post
The blue and white wires in the female disconnect may not be factory. Using the 14 owner's manual, go through all the wiring and compare it to both diagrams. You should be able to verify how the bike started out. It's likely a non-estart bike, but it is possible that someone pulled all the parts from the estart version.

Non-estart should have a simplified loom. Another indicator is that there should be a capacitor somewhere as shown in the non-estart diagram. The regulator/rectifier is the same unit for both variants of the machine. If you can match the wiring to the non-estart diagram and all the connections look good, I'd say just buy a new voltage RR and try it. At least you have AC power from the stator so there's no need to pull the flywheel.
I actually ordered a RR yesterday sinve my crash course in dirt bike wiring led me to believe that is the issue.The wiring is pretty straight forward on this bike. The blue and white wires in that picture are actually going to the low and high contact on the headlight. If I connect a 12v battery to that contact, both filaments light up.

Thanks for the help. Ill post an update once I install a nee RR.
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Old 07-27-2018, 12:15 AM
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If it never had e-start or a battery wouldn't the bike be AC only? I know my 2011 EC250 is AC only.
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Old 07-27-2018, 11:05 AM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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The 2014 bikes are different from the older bikes because of the DC powered CDI. On the old bikes everything was AC until they added estart in in 2011. Then you got basic bikes with AC and estart bikes with a combination of AC and DC.
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Old 07-28-2018, 10:43 AM
Homerocks1 Homerocks1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil E. View Post
The 2014 bikes are different from the older bikes because of the DC powered CDI. On the old bikes everything was AC until they added estart in in 2011. Then you got basic bikes with AC and estart bikes with a combination of AC and DC.
Maybe im not reading the wiring diagram correctly, but it looks like the cdi gets only ac. From what im seeing, only the lights and speedometer(which i dont have) get dc on the 14' non estart bikes.
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Old 07-28-2018, 11:38 AM
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Looks like I am wrong on the 2014 non-estart. In the estart diagram it shows no connection to the AC CDI winding. The non-estart diagram has that winding connected, so it must be an AC powered CDI. Sorry for the confusion.

After 2011 there is a lot of variation in components and how they are wired.
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Old 07-28-2018, 06:11 PM
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So, in your original post you were concerned about DC voltage. Well, you don't need it do you? All lights will run on AC, and the CDI runs on AC, and a Trailtech computer will run on AC, what's the problem? You should only have an AC voltage regulator and all should be good.
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