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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc |
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#11
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I didn't have access to the 'net yesterday due to a storm. I bought a 21mm, ground it down, and took it home to find that it's too small. $15 down the tube. lol
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#12
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Any suggestions to get the job done without buying this tool ?
I almost tried it by just running a rod through the holes but thought I'd ask for permission from you guys before I damage it. |
#13
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STOP!!!!
Never do that!! You will ruin the cartridge. On a WP cartridge, the spring guide can be unscrewed from the damper rod and the damper rod assembly drops out the bottom of the cartridge. The rebound/midvalve stacks can be serviced without removing the rebound tap from the damper rod.The one thing the WP fork has going for it is its ease of service. Get the right size tools and read the manual, forks are eaisly damaged by ghetto methods. |
#14
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LOL ! I did have a bad feeling when I started looking for an appropriate sized metal rod. That's when I decided to wait. Thanks for watching my back.
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#15
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Using the cap and spring guide as a jam nut worked great.
Everything's apart (on 1 leg) except the screwsleeve/DU-bush. Should I mess with that ? I'm sure it's '03 OEM. I couldn't find any tips on getting that out with ghetto methods. I'll post the shim stacks in hopes of getting opinions. I read that I should polish my rod. I've got some experience in that department but wonder what materials/tools to use in this instance. |
#16
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I wouldn't worry about the damper rod bushings unless there is abnormal wear marks on the rod. To do that requires more tools than your likely to buy. Besides valving changes, you definately want to change the midvalve shims. Check the bushings for signs that the teflon coating has worn through and change if neccessary, for an '03 its likely due. Seals, wipers and your done. Get a seal/bushing driver. I made a PVC one and it works, but the real tool is eaiser and safer. When you install the seals on the inner tube, cut the ziplock end off a plastic bag, put it over the end of the tube and grease it up with seal grease, and slide the wiper and seal over. You must do this to prevent cutting the seal on the bushing groove.
I've never heard that polishing your rod has anything to do with improved fork action. |
#17
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Quote:
Is there a substitute for "seal grease" or is it commonly available ? I read to put some oil-soaked sponge between the wiper and seal. Any opinion ? Seems logical to me. |
#18
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Go to a bicycle shop and get the grease that they use in mountain bike forks to lube the elastomer inserts or springs.
Something under the wiper to catch dirt is a good idea. I used nylon cord (like lawnmower starter cord) wrapped once around the fork and packed with seal grease. This fits pretty good with a slight compression. You can take it out and clean it easy. My seals lasted over a year doing this in all kinds of trash. I used the seal savers when it was really muddy. |
#19
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I still don't understand where the confusion came from? Once the cap and spring is removed you dump the oil, hold the cartridge rod without scratching it, soft vise jaws are nice, and remove the spring guide? Then the rod will drop out the bottom (base-valve end) of the cartridge...
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#20
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This is my 1st time and I was going by the WP manual. All the tips from you guys make alot more sense after you've done it but I was really scared of screwing something up along the way. I'll probably continue to be paranoid until I get 'em back together and see that all is good. Bear with me please ?
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