#11
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I'm about to pull apart my bike(carb). I need a bit of clarification...Is the larger the number on the slide equate lean? I found a #6 in my spare parts bin, that came with the bike. The slide in my parts bastard KX250 is a #7. I am going to drain the fuel and start fresh with a 40:1 mix. I'll check for clogs first(just in case). I have never jetted a motorcycle before, so this has potential for disaster written all over it. Common sense tells me, #1 carb removal & disassembly first. #2 verify installed jetting. #3 check for foreign matter causing any blockage. #4 proceed 1-3 with caution thank you all, for the input.
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All healed up, and ready to burn some fat. |
#12
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that is the way i understand it... higher is leaner...
from jd website Keihin PWK carburetor slides with higher or lower cutaways are used to adjust the closed throttle to 3/8 throttle range jetting. Installing a higher number slide is leaner at low throttle positions and can help fine-tune your jetting beyond the usual effects of needle clip position, pilot jet, and air screw adjustments. A lower slide number will richen low speed jetting to help reduce detonation, or allow running the motor in colder conditions with improved response. A leaner carburetor slide change extends the useful jetting range for riding at higher elevations too!
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broken down over 60 slow rider.. |
#13
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Based on what I think I know...I better have a look inside my carb, before I do anything I'll regret. This is going to be educational, to say the least.
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All healed up, and ready to burn some fat. |
#14
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you are on the right track... there is tons of help on here for you..
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broken down over 60 slow rider.. |
#15
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Yep! You're heading in the right direction Bowie. Get the carb out and have an inspection and cleaning. If you remove the bowl just be gentle with the floats.
Confirming the slides (smaller number = richer). I'd suggest starting with the #7 based on Glenns info. Hes onto something like his 4th GG 250 so knows a little something about them! If you start rich the worste that will happen is the bike will blubber and run like crap. From there every adjustment will be a step in the right direction, and when the improvements stop coming is when you've hit the magic spot. |
#16
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Quote:
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All healed up, and ready to burn some fat. |
#17
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I'm beginning to actually understand how a 2-stroke carb works, from reading & physically handling one. I'm a little fuzzy on the needle & clip position...Raise the clip to lean it out? I love having spare parts(bikes). The KX250 carb is the same, and has fatter jetting for my riding conditions. It will need a thorough cleaning, even since I ran it dry. If anyone has an older Gasser, and has a chance to get a '94-'98 KX250 for cheap or free, grab it. I find it convienient to rob parts from, in a pinch...Even though it's normally rideable. Brakes, carb, rear plastics, airbox, subframe, wheels etc. A final question...Should I start in the middle, with the clip position? The final tuning will be a matter of time. I hope I can get close on the first go.
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All healed up, and ready to burn some fat. |
#18
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that is what i have always been told on clip position... start in the middle..
i have also learned on my 01 anyway, it is easier to pull the fuel tank and take the carb out up thru the frame.. this table on clip position always made sense to me
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broken down over 60 slow rider.. |
#19
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Yeah raising the clip/lowering the needle is leaner.
Just start in middle clip because then you have 2 clips each direction to move in depending on how it runs. What needle is in your kawi? |
#20
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I haven't inspected the needle yet. I need the #7 slide, anyway. I'm bouncing between posting & reading. Now I have to go transport horses. Thanks.
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All healed up, and ready to burn some fat. |
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