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General Discussions & Announcements General Announcements, General Questions, e.g. What bike do I buy?, etc.


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  #21  
Old 01-21-2014, 03:49 PM
M.C. Clap-yo-hanz M.C. Clap-yo-hanz is offline
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Nice buy on that bike. I was considering buying it, but because of distance and the need for a bunch of paperwork to bring it over the border, you beat me to it. I have an '02 200 EC and the air box cover is just like in your pictures. No problem. Subframe is fine, but the bushing was worn out. As for the wiring questions, the wiring diagram for the Leonelli switch at GasGasRider forum has the complete wiring for that bike so you can follow the wires and figure what each wire on that bike is. I used that diagram on my bike. It was accurate.
http://gasgasrider.org/gg-wiring_Leonelli_switch.jpg


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  #22  
Old 01-21-2014, 06:32 PM
toadl toadl is offline
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Thanks for the link on the wiring diagram. I had a downloaded diagram but the resolution was pretty bad. If I understand it right. The Black/White wire from the CDI box goes to ground? Which would make sense. I think.
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  #23  
Old 01-21-2014, 11:05 PM
M.C. Clap-yo-hanz M.C. Clap-yo-hanz is offline
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I don't remember off hand, but that does make sense.
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  #24  
Old 01-22-2014, 07:07 AM
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There is really no benefit to removing wiring other than you mess the bike up for the next owner if you plan to sell it LOL .

For the record the B/W from the CDI goes to the ground at the coil.
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  #25  
Old 01-22-2014, 06:04 PM
toadl toadl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coop View Post
There is really no benefit to removing wiring other than you mess the bike up for the next owner if you plan to sell it LOL .

For the record the B/W from the CDI goes to the ground at the coil.
The wiring behind the number plate was in such bad shape I was worried about a wire grounding, anyways it was unusable.
"no benefit," What about all the weight I saved.:

I mentioned earlier that I greased the steering stem bearings. Well, I wasn't really happy with how they felt. I took them to work and cleaned them with parts cleaner, and they were obviously bad. I've never removed that lower bearing before, and I had good reason to be nervous. Fortunately at work we have lots tools for that sort of thing. Now I nervous about how good my judgement will be with the rear suspension bearings.
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  #26  
Old 02-01-2014, 11:29 AM
toadl toadl is offline
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I want to thank everyone for your feedback. I appreciate all opinions, especially lessons learned from previous experience. At this point I feel like I should dive deeper into the bike to learn as much about it as possible before summer arrives. Most likely get into the top end and measure the rings and piston, and look into the carb to record jet sizes and needle shape.
I checked the linkage and swingarm bearings and found the hardness in most of the sleeves to be worn through. I could feel the ridges with my finger. I did think the rear suspension seemed stiff.

New bearings pressed in. I slowly heated the linkage to 300 degrees Fahrenheit in a special oven. I used a torch to heat up the swing arm to about 250 degrees.
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  #27  
Old 02-01-2014, 07:08 PM
toadl toadl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john r b View Post
I see you have the 2k2 ignition. Do you have a fw weight?What size if so?
Your bike looks clean. congrats.Nice wheels too.
I found an hour to work in the garage today. I was going to put the swingarm back on but I forgot the chain slide at work so I started digging around. I guess it does have a flywheel weight. Here is the pic. I have no idea what size it is. I could easily find out if I weigh it. What direction are the threads?


Here is my biggest concern. You can't see in the picture, but the two of the reeds do not close all the way. Look at the lower left reed. This is not normal, is it? I read in the forum that someone turned the reeds around. Is this a good idea? Do they ever break?


Second concern, I think my exhaust is bent and creased in the first turn. How much is this going to affect performance? I'm more concerned about this crease more then the other dents because its the first turn.


It looks like possibly the dent in the lower curve happened at the same time. I saw this when I bought the bike but am not as concerned about that one.


Pictures of the cylinder and piston from the exhaust port. The piston doesn't have any carbon built up on it and I can see the cross hatching on the cylinder wall. Should I still take the head off to inspect tolerances?


Last edited by toadl; 02-02-2014 at 04:57 PM.
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  #28  
Old 02-01-2014, 07:16 PM
toadl toadl is offline
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Took the carb apart and recorded some sizes.
Here is the float. I was going to ask if it's supposed to be level but found the answer. No it's not. It is supposed to be level when the need seats in the valve.


Here is what I recorded.
Main Jet 180
Pilot jet 45
Needle is a DDK 3rd position from top
Slide number is 6

Last edited by toadl; 06-21-2014 at 05:06 PM.
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  #29  
Old 02-17-2014, 05:47 PM
toadl toadl is offline
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Stripped down the top end yesterday. With how things were going I thought I'd probably be buying some new parts. Turns out everything looks pretty good. Ring end gap was .27 and .26mm, pretty tight. Cylinder and piston look good. At some point someone replaced the piston rod and bearings in the bottom end. Put everything back together. The only "no no" I did was reused one circlip on the piston.
When I first saw the writing on the Gasket I thought it must be original. Now I think it must be a dealers way verifying something.


Japanese Vesrah crank.


I also ordered 1996 yz250 reeds. We'll see how they fit. I'm going to make the reed block and ignition cover gaskets at work. Avoid shipping costs.
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  #30  
Old 02-17-2014, 05:58 PM
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11 OZ fly wheel weight is what you have .
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