Rear Wheel Bearings - Installation Tip
 

This applies to the 2007/2008 bikes, but perhaps 2005+ (if anyone can confirm). Hopefully, this gives everyone a heads-up in order to prevent you from experiencing similar issues. :cool:

Background Info:
After installing new bearings, my rear wheel felt like it was binding when the nut was torqued to 60 ft-lbs. The aluminum stepped-washer between the 2 bearings on the sprocket side was replaced with the new bearings. Everything appeared to be lined up ok since the axle slid through easily during mounting.

Root Cause:
I really hated to push out my new bearings, but I needed to find the root cause. After reheating the hub, I tapped out my bearings and removed all spacers, etc..

First, I double-checked to make sure all bearings were correct. On the 2007/2008 bikes, the sprocket side has a large outer bearing (6005) and smaller inner bearing (6004). The brake side has the same smaller bearing (6004). Everything was good according to part numbers.

Next, I made an interesting observation on the aluminum stepped washer. If you hold it up to the light, you can slightly see one side stick out farther than the other. At first I thought it was just imagining something. Well, I held the washer in between the 6005 and 6004 bearings (like installed on the bike). The washer definitely has a slight asymmetric/offset to it. In the correct orientation, the washer OD has a slight clearance to both bearings (perhaps more clearance with the larger 6005 bearing). If you flip the washer over, then the washer OD contacts the larger 6005 bearing on both its OD and ID. This in effect causes the washer to drag on the bearing's OD (not good!). I could also see score/witness marks on the washer OD where it was scraping against the bearing OD.

Since I had my older parts handy, I compared those bearings and washer setup. I noticed the exact same thing (i.e., the asymmetric washer clearances). I could tell by the witness marks from the previous installation which bearing was contacting each washer side. For the record, my previous installation was correct and the washer had proper clearance with the larger 6005 bearing and wheel rotated freely.

Conclusion:
I believe the washer orientation is the root cause why I felt the binding in my rear wheel. I have reassembled my wheel with the washer in it's correct orientation (i.e., to ensure clearance with the larger bearing OD) and it now rotates properly when nut is torqued to 60 ft-lb.

Here is the incorrect installation:

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f7...ct_install.jpg

Here is the correct installation:
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f7...ct_install.jpg

Here is the stepped washer. Note: I marked the outboard side (with "O") to remind me during installation.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f7...ped_washer.jpg

Thanks for the info !

ok I have an identical binding issue on my 06 300. however I stumbled on this thread before I put my bearings back in. My washer is stepped on both sides btw. anyway I put it back just like in the correct installation pic. plus the washer seemed to want to go back that way anyway. I haven't pulled the wheel apart yet but .... can you think of any reason it would be binding even if the washer and bearings are in correctly?? I packed the area behind the seals with grease a-la the gmp method of water penetration prevention. Would too much grease be an issue?? one other point though I noticed that with the new bearings installed I could not spin the inner races by jambing my fingers in the axle hole. I think the last time I had bearings installed I could do that. I've been told that is not a big deal .. sometimes you can ... somtimes you can't ....

imo
This thread should be a sticky or put in the technical articles section!!

I am going o have to check mine as I find that my wheel binds somewhat after tightening also. This has been like this from the factory.

I should have clarified this previously. Sorry for the confusion...
Yes, the washer is stepped on both sides. The amount of step is different per side. Hence, the washer is slightly asymmetric. Just be careful with the orientation before installation. Check clearances before installing like my photo shows and everything will be good!

Tahnkyou Matt... Now it all starts to make sense.:)

I just replaced my rear wheel bearings last night. All cleaned up and greased profusely. Assembled and the wheel mounted.

Upon torquing the axle nut on the first time, successive "setting noises" were heard. Even before reaching specified torque of 98Nm, the rear wheel was binding.

I removed the sprocket side bearings carefully and noted that the inner seal of the 6005 bearing had crushed in and was binding the bearing.

I mounted a new bearing with the spacer "backwards" and remounted the wheel. Upon torquing, a few less "setting noises" were heard but the wheel still binds.

On my washer, there are protruding rings on both sides. I ended up installing the washer so that the inner races of both bearings contacted the protruding rings, avoiding any rings contacting the bearing seals.

The wheel still binds, but, oh well, I gotta ride tonight.

I have had this problem ounce before. Then today I mounted up my spare u-rim and bam........Stuck wheel. Removed bearings and flipped washer. Still stuck. So I then mounted up the sprocket side

spacer, big outer bearing , washer and inner bearing with another spacer in the vice. Just snug everything spun nice. But when I tightened up the vise to simulate the torque of the rear axle guess

what.......................The washer had enough give in it to bend over and touch the outer race of the inner bearing. So I flipped the washer and tried it again. It did the same thing both ways. The cause is

the fact that the small surface of the spacer that fits inside the outer bearing is about a mm shy of touching the washer. ( I have 2 factory, 1 aftermarket and one i just made to try and they all have the

same length.) So this being the case the larger inner race on the outter bearing bends the washer around the smaller inner race of the inner bearing. I suspect that with repeated wheel changes the

washer just gets fatigued enough to give into the 60 lbs torque of the rear axle.

I will make a steel washer as a replacement. But for the hare scramble tomorrow, I just cut off the thin part of the washer. It now spins like butter!

Hi All, first post :)

Having just bought an EC300 needing a few bits 'tinkering' with, this has been a really useful forum!

Ive tried searching but found nothing on this possible issue...

Im replacing the rear wheel bearings, old bearings came out ok and im now fitting the new ones. Have fitted the two on the sprocket side, with the washer in the middle in the correct orientation.

However, both bearings have locked up solid when in situ, is this normal? Doesnt seem right to me. I guess its where the washer contacts the inner race of both bearings or someting, but surely the washer and both inner races should turn together freely?

Thinking back, the old bearings were the same when in place, so maybe this is right and once all torqued up and pulled together they turn.

Have left the disc side bearing out for the time being incase the others need removing.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance for any advice! :)

Adrian

Sounds like the washer is in backwards, the bearings should turn. When you torqued the axle it will be worse.

All fine now :) Just checked by sliding the spindle through and applying a bit of radial load and they spun freely. So put the bearing in the other side and then tried it on the bike all tightened up (without the main wheel seals) and they span lovely! They also spin fine now off the bike too.

I guess they just needed setting and coupled with adding more grease inside them before fitting made them hard to turn initially.

Thanks for your repsonse :)

Ad

Here's a little mystery for you GasGas scholars: I needed to change the rear wheel bearings in my '07 300 for the 1st time (haven't been able to ride it much til lately). I read this thread 3 times & studied the photos of the washer at length.

I got out this morning before church & banged out the old bearings & surprise: No washer! I went ahead & changed the bearings & they seem fine, except that if I go all the way to 60 ft. Lbs. On my torque wrench, the wheel binds, but it will go to about 59 lbs., so that may be just the tolerances in the wrench.

So is my bike missing a part it should have, or did they make a change at the factory on the fly?

Yes, you are missing the spacer between the bearings. The original is aluminum, but they wear out and bend into the other bearing causing it to bind. I just made a replacement made from steel.

ok thanks!

Does the spacer come in a bearing kit or do you just use the one that comes out? Couldnt see where I could buy one (uk) i know some have made there own but im not clever like that!

Just another thought because I am changing my bearings currently. The bigger bearing is specified as "6005 2RSR C3". This is a special bearing with greater bearing clearance. Using a standard 6005 bearing, which has identical dimensions, could cause binding of the wheel because of too little axial clearance.

Peter

Lawman, I changed my bearings when I first bought my used 07...The washer I took out was totally fried...smashed flat and distorted in several ways. Factory install? Replaced wrong by prior owner? I bought new bearings from Mark at Gofasters, and he included the "updated" washer with the bearings and helped me with orientation of it. Good people there. 2 years of riding without any binding

After wrestling with wheel bearings over the years and now most recently with some very, very corroded rears out of my '08, I found the best tool to date on removing these damn things.

This set of pry bars, I use the 12" for wheel bearing removal. Narrow enough to get a bite but long/strong enough to smack it with a 5lb sledge.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...set-68339.html

Get the inner wheel spacer tilted so you can get the pry bar tip on the inner lip of the old bearing, then WACK. Done. No more chisel, stake or screwdriver attempts.

Just to clarify..im buying barings tomorrow..is it 2 6004rs and 1 6005rs barings I need?? 2007 ec 300

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

If you heat the hub with a torch they come right out (does not take much)

If you put the new ones in the freezer for an hour or so and reheat the hub they go in very slick.

so I decided to revisit this tread with some results regarding the whole washer feaskio...my guy who has plenty of gg experience done my rear barings..he had a new stainless steel centre spacer made because the stock spacer wad crap and decreased in size and caused my barings to bind and collapse..I had the hole stepped washer conversation with him before he done the barings and he politely told me "he new what he was doing" lol so when I collected the wheel I asked about the washer and he told me he left the washer out..so after some riding, 2 races one enduro, one motocross everything seem tight and free moving..

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Spooly Do you happen to know the size of the spacer he had made? I would like to do the same thing. I can't seem to find the correct length any where.

I don't sorry..and im not taking it out to find out.lol all I know is the spacer has to be slightly bigger then the center of the hub..so that when tightened the barings are pressing against the spacer and not the hub....iv the wheel off at the moment if I can measure the spacer I will and post the measurement...I don't have a vernier callipers big enough I think

Going to replace my bearings this coming week. The large spacer is worn where the seal sits. Is it better to replace bothe spacers at the same time. Also puttinf the newer type washer in as I can't get the original one.

If you are talking about #37 in the finch you can replace it any time. Somewhere on the site there is a link to a stainless steel one that wont wear


http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....&d=-REAR-WHEEL

If you are replacing seals and spacers go for the skf wheel seal spacer kit you will like it and the deign should last longer than oem
http://slavensracing.com/shop/wheel-...saberg-by-skf/

I appear to be having this same issue with the rear bearings in my '09 EC300; however, it appears the spacer I have is symmetric, so I'm a little baffled. I looked at the gap between the spacer and the bearings' outer races with the spacer flipped one way, then the other, and it was identical. I also closely inspected the spacer and it really seemed that the location of the inner, raised surface was the same diameter on each side. Maybe it was the cold garage effecting my brain. Or the cold beer.

I can put about 20-30 ft-lb torque on the axle then I start to notice resistance when spinning the rear wheel. At 60 ft-lb the rear still turns, but the friction is quite noticeable.

Did the spacer design change in '09?

I'm also a bit confused by this design. Generally when you tap or press a bearing in you do it until the outer race seats against a bearing pocket. But in the case of the larger bearing you need to have a gap between its outer race and the spacer - if you go until the outer race is firmly seated, then it's going to be contacting the thinner edge of the washer. Additionally, the outer race might then be pressed in past where the inner race has been seated against the thicker part of the spacer. Is the solution to this to make sure you tap or press the bearing in with a solid-faced cylinder (e.g. the back side, not the open end of a socket) so you also contact the inner race? That also doesn't seem entirely right, since then you'd be putting a side load on the inner race of the inner bearing to provide your stopping point (and transferring a side load to the inner race of the brake-side bearing via the inner spacer tube)

Clearly I'm confused as to how this three-bearing-with-spacer system is supposed to be properly reassembled. :confused: Help! :o

Need the same info. .bad spacer explode my right bearing

Bearing bind on rear wheel
 

Alright.... good news from the north

Rebuilt the 06 GG250EC over the winter, new everthing from the rear linkage back... last item on my list was to swap out the rear wheel bearings and seals with new ones, same problem arose with the wheel drag at only 30lbs on the nut....never had this issue before.... back apart it came and onto the forum we go to find out what I missed??

Here is what we have boys....The old hub washer between the sprocket side bearings was the issue causing the binding.... you need a new one!

1.The washer is machined flat (no bend) from the factory
Washer size new.......
- Thickness 2mm centre (.078").........This one is important!!!
- Thickness 1mm outside (.039)
- Steps are the same diameter 29.50mm (1.162")
- Steps are incut 0.50mm (.020") both sides
- OD overall @ 41.80mm (1.627")
- ID 20mm (.787")

2.Over 10 years of re torquing the rear axel nut to 60lbs with tire swaps it slowly bends the washer over due to the slight difference in the two sprocket side bearings ID differentials, making it look bent. (should not look that way)

3.The washer slowly looses its original factory 2mm centre thickness and at the same time slowly increasing the tolorances in the outside sprocket side bearing.

4. The slow over time wear on both the washer and outside bearing allows the wheel to to stay free when 60lbs is on the axel nut and everyones happy.

5.One day we notice the outside bearings getting noisy and we decide to change it because we should and wham..... new bearings, seals and the old bent washer all installed, new tire as well..... 60 lbs on the axel nut and she binds???

6. What just happened is you have just side loaded the new outer bearing, sprocket side with the loss in washer thickness, maybe only a .05 mm or a few .001" for you americans, but in bearing world its enough side load on the bearing to cause the binding issue. Go riding with side load on that bearing and you will have pre mature bearing failure for sure... not good!

My advice is to always replace the washer (part#58) or as they call it Interior Hub Washer on the parts list, when replacing rear wheel bearings and seals. You may also want to replace your newly installed outer sprocket side bearing again if you have removed it to install the NEW Washer, as you more than likely damaged it pulling it out by the inner race, your call? 10 bucks well spent in my mind!

My bike is fixed and ready to roll. Hope this helps.

GG Loops

The kit is listed as fitting 05 and up. Anyone know if it will work on an 04?

I replace wheel bearings about once a month (I ride/race a lot, always in water) and am looking for something to help prolong the lifespan of my bearings.

Thanks.

The rear wheel bearing and spacer configuration was changed in the 2003 year model; so yes, the 2004 rear wheel is the "new style" and the same as the 2005.

Good Riding!
Jim

rear wheel bearing spacer
 

have a 2005 ec300 love the bike never knew it was supposed to have the small spacer on the drive side i got one and wow what a difference it made the wheel spins so free now:D

Guys... I have Gasgas EC250 2008 racing with AJP wheel hubs... parts catalogue says I have 3 bearings in rear wheel... 6004 on right side and 6005 and 6204 on left... but I have checked it and it looks that I have 6004 instead of 6204 on left side.. Is it mistake in parts catalogue or my hub is different? Although on right side I have 6004 and seal but without seeger... and I have strange spacers as I have ID of hub 45mm and bearing and seal have OD 42mm, but maybe ex-owner have repaired damaged hub this way.

Are you sure you aren't missing the very thin small spacer that goes between the two bearings? Its commonly misplaced and will lead to a very rapid deterioration of the wheel bearings.