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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc.


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  #41  
Old 09-16-2015, 01:32 PM
memphis2857 memphis2857 is offline
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Sounds like your dealer is an asshat! Or maybe he just doesn't really care to support you given the current state of GG. But it's bad business on his part because I am pretty sure he just lost a customer no matter what brand of bike he sells in the future. Maybe some of the guys on here that are on the bottom side of the earth as well can help you contact the proper person for assistance.

We still don't have a very good idea of how your bike is running. Does it big like it's running out of gas? Does it have a hanging idle after a hard pull? How is the power? Is it running hot? Engine make any strange noises?
The air screw for the most part only affects idle and is just to fine tune once you get the jetting proper.

Going to 40:1 will actually cause the bike to be leaner than it is at 50:1. More oil less fuel.

It doesn't sound like the float level is to low. Actually is probably a bit too high.


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  #42  
Old 09-16-2015, 03:32 PM
nestz nestz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memphis2857 View Post

We still don't have a very good idea of how your bike is running. Does it big like it's running out of gas? Does it have a hanging idle after a hard pull? How is the power? Is it running hot? Engine make any strange noises?
The air screw for the most part only affects idle and is just to fine tune once you get the jetting proper.

Going to 40:1 will actually cause the bike to be leaner than it is at 50:1. More oil less fuel.

It doesn't sound like the float level is to low. Actually is probably a bit too high.
-No it doesn't seem bog like its running out of gas.
-And it doesn't have a hanging idle.
-The power is ok but I don't know what I'm comparing it too (its got nothing on my sx or a RM250 I rode in the weekend, its very tame - but that might
be just how enduro bikes are? (I've never ridden one before).
-Not sure how to tell if its running hot but I haven't lost any radiator fluid if that's any indication?
-No overly strange noises, just sounds a bit tinny WOT more like a 125 than a big bore 2 stroke. But again I'm not sure how its suppose to sound.

I guess if I hadn't of checked the plug I wouldn't have been concerned because it seemed to run fine, nice idle, no hesitations, no hanging, bogs or anything. There was that burning smell the first time I rode it hard though? but that may have been because its new?

Is it possible to have a white plug with it running right and all being ok?

Would you guys ride it like this?
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  #43  
Old 09-16-2015, 03:44 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Its hard to accurately read plugs with todays fuels and oils, and even more so on a new plug. Like I suggested earlier, either get a magnifying glass and look down into the the base of the plug or cut the threads off completely (google fuel ring), OR simply grab a used plug and go for a ride and see if it comes out white and ashy.

Given the way the bike is running it's not showing any really obvious signs of being lean (with exception of a white plug).

An EC300 isn't going to feel like a 250, and even less than a motorcross model. Huge amount of flywheel inertia to overcome due to the 2K3 lighting stator, as well as an engine (port map and CDI map) which is aimed more towards technical riding than peak power.
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  #44  
Old 09-16-2015, 04:18 PM
nestz nestz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
OR simply grab a used plug and go for a ride and see if it comes out white and ashy..
Ok I will do this in the weekend. If it doesn't come out 'white and ashy' would the consensus be that its not lean and therefore safe to ride?

Should I still bother checking the float bowl given that it leaks when on a lean therefore probably too high anyway?

Also does it mater that the air screw is 3 turns out if its idling fine? Or should I try screw in and set it richer?
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  #45  
Old 09-16-2015, 04:30 PM
Jacob 'Berg Jacob 'Berg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nestz View Post
Ok I will do this in the weekend. If it doesn't come out 'white and ashy' would the consensus be that its not lean and therefore safe to ride?

Should I still bother checking the float bowl given that it leaks when on a lean therefore probably too high anyway?

Also does it mater that the air screw is 3 turns out if its idling fine? Or should I try screw in and set it richer?
You should check the float height regardless of all other factors. If it is leaking fuel on the stand, then it is probably set too high. You will run into problems jetting the bike correctly if the height is not set to spec.
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  #46  
Old 09-16-2015, 07:19 PM
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gg3 gg3 is offline
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Nestz,where in NZ are you? Who is the dealer?(I know a couple of them).
As stated,set the float level as it is too high,turn the air screw out from fully in 1.5-2 turns.Won't change your plug colour but will run better.
How does it run with the choke on when warmed up?
The Dealer- If he sold it he is responsible (NZ consumers guarantee act).Don't want to get too down on the dealer as they are doing it hard at the moment & may just need a 'reminder' about customer service.With the issues you have had regarding the complete rubbish assembly of the stator cover & engine case bolt coming out,I am a very disappointed & surprised.There are certain fixtures that vibrate loose or need checking & all are well documented on this site,but these 2 problems shouldn't happen at all.
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  #47  
Old 09-16-2015, 08:52 PM
nestz nestz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gg3 View Post
Nestz,where in NZ are you? Who is the dealer?(I know a couple of them).
As stated,set the float level as it is too high,turn the air screw out from fully in 1.5-2 turns.Won't change your plug colour but will run better.
How does it run with the choke on when warmed up?
The Dealer- If he sold it he is responsible (NZ consumers guarantee act).Don't want to get too down on the dealer as they are doing it hard at the moment & may just need a 'reminder' about customer service.With the issues you have had regarding the complete rubbish assembly of the stator cover & engine case bolt coming out,I am a very disappointed & surprised.There are certain fixtures that vibrate loose or need checking & all are well documented on this site,but these 2 problems shouldn't happen at all.
I'm in Auckland. The Dealer is NTB Racing. Its a long story but although I bought the bike brand new, I did not buy it directly from them. I bought it privately brand new a day or 2 after he bought it from NTB (like I say its a long story - but everything was 100% legit and all above board)

So unfortunately I'm not covered by 'NZ consumers guarantee act' because technically I bought it privately.

However this doesn't change GG guaranty that states: "Should the purchaser resell the product within the Warranty Period, the duration and conditions of the present Warranty will remain"

Also what difference does it make - because the original owner would have had all the problems I've got with it.

NTB never made the issue about me not being the original owner, their refusal to help was based on it being sold at a discounted 2014 run-out price with no PDI done. I will also add that the guy I spoke with (Mark) was a good guy and did spend time on the phone with me trying to help, so I was grateful for that.

However I feel GG should stand by their product because when I asked NTB what their PDI would have included, nothing he mentioned would have made any difference to the issues I have.

I've added another photo of the regulator brace snapped (just another thing to add to the list of failures on a 3hr old bike)

I haven't tried the choke on when warm yet - hoping to take it for a short run this weekend to test all these recommendation.

Also can you point me to where I should look on this site for the things to check that vibrate loose and anything else I should check before it falls off or breaks.

Cheers!
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  #48  
Old 09-16-2015, 09:39 PM
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gg3 gg3 is offline
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Anyone seen one of these break before?
Heaps of setup info-
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20009
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/sho...18723&highligh
I think Mike Brown at Triumph NZ is still the GasGas NZ contact.Good guy to deal with from what I have heard.I agree a dealer or importer should be supporting you.There are not many of us buying new bikes in NZ!
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  #49  
Old 09-17-2015, 05:32 AM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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The 15 300 that arrived at my local dealers had a case bolt which was loose when it came out of the crate. I noted it as I was looking over the bike. It was down near the counter shaft from memory.

Heres a thread on my 13R, and what I addressed prior to riding it. This bike had a fresh piston at 65hrs and is now up around 115hrs moving towards its next one. http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16254
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  #50  
Old 09-18-2015, 04:30 AM
nestz nestz is offline
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What is it that makes a 2 stroke spark plug have a tan/brown colour? I notice that 4 stroke plugs appear a lot lighter.

Is the tan/brown appearance on 2 stroke plugs caused from the burning the pre-mix oil?

If that is the reason could my white plug be explained by the fact that my bike is new (running 50:1 in the sand) and hasn't had a chance to build up much oil in the crank? Therefore there hasn't been much oil to burn and affect the colour of the plug.

I'm probably way off but just wondering if that could be a plausible theory?

If it is would it help to increase the pre-mix ratio to 40:1 and go richer on the jets to compensate for the leaner fuel/air?
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